The Three Passes Trek is the “grand tour” of the Everest region: all the highlights, all the villages and the best viewpoints while you cross three spectacular Himalayan high passes. I spent three weeks on my own in the Khumbu region. In this article, I share my experiences and provide you with all the important information if you want to do the hike yourself.
Everest, the indisputable ruler of all mountains, the single highest point on earth – seeing it is a dream come true for every hiker. One way to reach the worlds tallest mountain is the famous Everest Basecamp Trek, the classic route of the first summiters. Today, it`s one of the most famous hikes on the planet and a popular destination for budding adventurers from all over the world.
However, there is another, lesser known and more exciting route to Everest – the infamous Three Passes Trek.
This trek is longer and somewhat more challenging. Some even say it´s the most difficult teahouse trek in Nepal. But it`s also much more rewarding because it offers a deeper glimpse of Khumbu, the legendary homeland of the Sherpa. Add to this slightly more adventurous trails… and we have a trek, that´s impossible to resist.
Hiking around the world’s highest mountains
As the name implies, the trek crosses three Himalayan high passes, each over 5,000 meters of altitude: Kongma La, Cho La and Renjo La. These passes connect the three major valleys of the Khumbu and allow you to walk right in front of the world’s highest mountains. This is a big hike in every respect. Almost three weeks of walking between the most magnificent mountain landscape on earth and getting to know all the highlights of the Everest region – of which there are plenty!
The Everest Three Passes Trek had been on my bucket list for a long time. However, I was also feeling a bit daunted. This was not going to be my first hike in the Himalayas. After completing the Annapurna Circuit two years ago, I wanted to pay Nepal another longer visit this year. And this time I felt ready – this time I wanted to conquer the three passes.
Was it worth it? Without a doubt. I think this truly is one of the most beautiful alpine hikes in the world. But it was also quite tough in parts. It’s a trek that you should approach well prepared. That’s exactly why I wrote this article. Here you`ll find all the important information about the route, the stages, the difficulties, how to get there and everything else you should know to prepare for the Three Passes Trek.
Ready for one of the most exciting hikes in Nepal? Then let’s get started!
At a glance:
High-altitude-trek crossing three 5,000-metre passes in the world’s highest mountain range
Length: approx. 135 km (not including additional detours and acclimatization hikes)
Total altitude gain: +7,500, – 7,500 meters
Highest point: Kongma La, 5,535 meters
Time required: 16-18 days
Difficulty: difficult
Adventure rating: high
Multiple glacier crossings, challenging passes, harsh climate and low temperatures
Overnight stays in simple lodges and accommodation, own sleeping bag recommended
Before we delve into the details, a few words about my experiences. As always, I did the hike on my own, without a guide. Regular readers of the blog probably know that I organize most of my trips this way. On the Three Passes Trek, this is generally allowed and, thanks to the many lodges along the way, relatively easy to do.
So, this article is best suited for backpackers who plan trips on their own. But you´ll find the information useful if you go with a guide as well. If you want to hike the Three Passes Trek unguided, I recommend prior experience in high-altitude trekking. You will find more detailed information below in the article.
Hiking guide for the Everest region
My recommendation: Jamie McGuiness – Trekking in the Everest Region
The excellent hiking guide “Trekking in the Everest Region*” from the Trailblazer series is currently the best book available for the Khumbu region and my top recommendation for hikers.
In addition to detailed information on all trekking routes, the book contains lots of suggestions for day trips and excursions. It also includes plenty of interesting background information and practical tips – all from an author who has been traveling to the Everest region for decades.
Together with a good hiking map*, this book will prepare you for any situation!
Tip: If you prefer to navigate with your smartphone, the popular outdoor app Outdooractive also contains the trails and well-known trekking routes in the Everest region. Definitely worth a look if you regularly use navigation apps!
Challenging mountain trails, three Himalayan high passes well over 5,000 meters, several glacier crossings and sublime views of the world’s highest mountains every single day. That, in a nutshell, is the Everest Three Passes Trek. A hike where everything is big and bold. This is a mountain environment in its most unapologetic and maximalist form.
Landscape-wise the trek never let’s you down. There is not a single boring stage. If you want to see the highest peaks in the world without being a mountaineer, this is probably your best bet. And trust me… the sheer scale of these mountains will leave you speechless. Cho Oyu, Lhotse, Nupste, Ama Dablam and, of course, the mighty Everest – you simply can’t get much higher than this on our planet.
However, it’s not just about size. What I really liked was how familiar these mountains become over time. Every step of your feet brings you closer into mighty nature. This is not a simple panorama hike with some nice vistas – it’s a journey right into the heart of the Nepalese Himalayas. Sometimes a bit taxing, but all your efforts will be richly rewarded!
View from Chukhung Ri in front of Ama Dablam (6,814 m) – many say it´s one one of the most beautiful mountains in Nepal.
Why this hike is better than Everest Basecamp
The Everest Three Passes Trek has one big advantage over the better-known Everest Basecamp Trek: you get to know a huge part of the Khumbu region in one single hike. You don`t just walk straight to the basecamp and back the same way, instead it`s more of a journey through the whole region.
A nice bonus: there are numerous detours along the way. To Everest Basecamp, to the famous Gokyo Lakes and, of course, to many scenic viewpoints. If you are ambitious, you might even tackle a 6,000-meter trekking peak such as Island Peak (6,189 m) or Mera Peak (6,461). With enough time and energy, anything is possible…
Everest, the highest mountain in the world, of course provides an almost irresistible drawing point for mountain enthusiasts. Accordingly, the trail to Basecamp is crowded. Fortunately, the Three Passes Trek is a bit quieter. Most of the visitors simply walk to Everest Basecamp, the side trails are more peaceful.
You need an additional day for a trip to Everest Basecamp – I thought it was well worth the time.
The Himalayas are not a wilderness
When you imagine the Himalayas, you might think of the most remote, wild mountain landscapes in the world. This is not quite true, at least not on the Three Passes Trek. Even at higher altitudes, you will pass through villages, and you will regularly encounter porters, guides and other hikers on the trails. It´s not a wilderness trek. Even on the relatively remote passes, the distance to the next village is no more than a few kilometers.
Still, it`s a different feeling than on the Annapurna Circuit, which mostly passes through populated farmland. The Everest region is a true high altitude environment, which was never inhabited year-round. Many of the villages above Namche Bazaar are seasonal yak pastures that were only developed with the advent of mountain tourism. Outside of the villages, you sometimes feel at the mercy of this vast, unforgiving landscape – but that´s exactly what makes the trek so appealing!
Looking across the mighty Ngozumpa Glacier, at 36 kilometers of length one of the largest glaciers in Nepal.
Route and stages of the Three Passes Trek
Due to its shape on a map, the Three Passes Trek is sometimes called a “Lollipop Loop”. The stick of the lollipop is the first stretch through forests along the “milk river” Dhud Khosi from the small airport Lukla to Namche Bazar. This is the small capital of the Sherpa, impressively surrounded by mountains on all sides. Here most people take a day to acclimatize and explore the area.
The alpine part of the trek starts in Namche: now we cross the three great valleys of the Khumbu: Imja, the Khumbu Valley and the Gokyo Valley, with the gigantic Ngozumpa Glacier and its six large mountain lakes. Most people do the trek in an anticlockwise direction. This provides for better acclimatization, as you gain altitude more slowly. Also, there is less elevation gain when climbing to the passes and the ascents are not as steep either.
Popular side trips on the Everest Three Passes Trek
In the Khumbu Valley, a trip to the Everest Base Camp, probably the most famous campsite in the world, is a nice sidetrip. Many also climb Kala Patthar (5,644 m), which offers a good view of Everest. A total of two additional days are required for both excursions. In the Gokyo Valley, the hike to the Gokyo Lakes and to Gokyo-Ri (5,357 m) is quite popular. You only need one additional day for this.
It is also worthwhile to climb Chukhung Ri before the first pass, Kongma La. Many guides told me, that this is the single best viewpoint in the Everest region. If you have more time, you can also walk to Island Peak Base Camp – a beautiful hike even without a summit attempt. You will need one additional day for this.
After Gokyo, the route leads over the last pass, Renjo La, into the peaceful, rarely visited valley of Thame and, after almost two weeks in the high mountains, back below tree line, into the world of villages, shrines and prayer wheels. From there it`s just a stone’s throw to Namche. Here we come full circle. The last section back to Lukla is the same as on the outward journey.
Map and GPS track
Check out the exact route of the hike on the following map. The waypoints correspond to the locations in the individual stages. If you use the GPS track, please note that the routes over the glaciers can change, as this terrain is always on the move.
Overview of the stages and trip report of the Everest Three Passes Trek
Here you´ll find all stages of the Everest Three Passes Trek as I did them. My schedule is based on the recommendations for daily elevation gain (see the section on acclimatization) and is rather conservative. So you can use this outline for your own hike if you start in Lukla. No prior acclimatization is needed.
You probably also want to know what to expect every day. That’s why I describe the stages in detail on the following pages. Just click on the respective link. On the pages, you will find a detailed description, my exciting trip report and, of course, many great photos from the highest mountain range in the world! Start here.
(Trip report only in German for now, but use Google Translate)
The three eponymous passes are both highlight and crux of the tour. None of them are a stroll in the park. These are proper mountain passes, not a “hiking highway” like Thorong La on the Annapurna Circuit. In addition to the demanding terrain, you will face altitudes above 5,000 meters. However, not all passes are equally difficult.
The passes in counterclockwise direction are:
Kongma La (5,535 m)
Cho La (5,420 m)
Renjo La (5,360 m)
Let’s take a detailed look at the three Passes!
Kongma La: The long march
Kongma La connects Imja Valley with Khumbu Valley and is usually the first pass on the circuit. To give you a proper welcome, it`s also the most difficult: the hike between the villages of Chukhung and Lobuche takes about 8-10 hours of pure walking time. One of the challenges is the very long ascent – it takes hours before you even see the pass. In the upper parts, the alpine trail is quite steep. Here you have to overcome some short scrambling sections.
View of Kongma La from the west – the pass is the gap at the very top of the picture.
The descent is even steeper, in some places almost trailless hiking through scree and boulder fields. Once at the bottom, you then have to cross the Khumbu Glacier. The glacier is covered with scree, the walking is quite arduous after the difficult pass and the long descent. Also, the glacier route is prone to rockfall in some places. All in all, this is a long and tough day!
Cho La: Walking over the glacier
The Cho La is the direct connection between Khumbu Valley and Gokyo Valley and is partially covered with a glacier. Nevertheless, it´s a bit easier overall because both ascent and descent are not quite as steep. Furthermore, the route to the pass from the nearest village of Dzonghla is quite a bit shorter than on the previous pass. This day is therefore comparatively easy – if you mastered the previous pass, there should be no problems here.
Looking across Cho La glacier from east. To get a sense for the scale, note the tiny people on the surface.
The obvious challenge at Cho La is the glacier. This is actually a real glacier with some crevasses and not just a big snowfield. However, the correct route is well marked with poles – not only on the glacier but along the entire stage. So, in good conditions, it’s technically easy to cross it. The pass is also frequently used by people. Crampons are not strictly required but microspikes* are definitely useful.
Renjo La: The final boss
If you do the circuit anticlockwise, the Renjo La is the last obstacle. This is the lowest pass and many consider it the easiest of the hike – although at these altitudes difficulty is relative. Undoubtedly however, it´s the best view point – the vista across Gokyo Valley to Everest is out of this world. The pass is also used quite frequently – including by yaks. On the other two passes this would be quite impossible.
The last few meters before reaching the top of the Renjo La pass, viewed from the east.
Again, the walk from the nearest village Gokyo is quite short. Before reaching the top of the pass, however, you have to make a small detour around a side ridge, which I found a bit annoying. The descent initially leads across stonecarved steps down to the beautiful mountain lake Angladumba Tsho. The rest of the trail to the first village on the western side, Lungdhen, is gentle and softly descending. If you start early, you can hike from Gokyo to Thame via Renjo La in one day.
Stunning panorama view from Renjo La (click to enlarge):
Good to know: You can bypass Kongma La on an alternative trail in the valley via Pheriche. At the other two passes this is not possible. You would need to walk down very far into the respective valleys and then walk up again on the other side of the pass.
Three Passes Trek clockwise or counterclockwise?
The Three Passes Trek is usually done counterclockwise. This direction offers the optimal balance between daily distance and altitude gained. You ascend relatively gently, which is the best way to ensure a successful acclimatization (see below).
Of course, it is possible to walk in the other direction, i.e. clockwise. I met some people who did that. Just keep the following points in mind:
The ascent to the passes from west to east are steeper and you will gain more elevation. The crossings are therefore more strenuous and you will need more time – approximately 8-10 hours each, probably more at Kongma La.
Crossing Kongma La in particular is likely to be a big challenge, both physically and mentally: you face hours of steep ascent through endless scree fields, always seeing the pass that looms high above you in the far distance.
In clockwise direction, you have to cross the Khumbu and Ngozumpa glaciers before the actual pass. Here, too, Kongma La is likely to be the crux – you can’t take a rest day between the Khumbu Glacier and the pass but have to walk from Lobuche to Chukung in one go. I would plan about 11 hours of walking time for this.
One argument sometimes put forward for a clockwise ascent is that the views are better in this direction. At least at Renjo La, I would agree. And the first view of the Cholatse north face after crossing the Cho-La pass glacier should also be stunning. But of course you can always just turn around. So in reality, that’s not a big advantage. Personally, I think the advantages of better acclimatization outweigh the disadvantages.
Taking a well-earned rest atop Kongma La, the highest pass of the Three Passes hike.
How difficult is the Three Passes Trek?
As mentioned above, the Three Passes Trek is not an alltogether easy hike. It`s walking all the way, not mountaineering, but after Namche the trails are at times quite rough even without taking the altitude into account. The passes themselves are manageable but take time. In addition, you will stay in oxygen-deprived air for a pretty long time: about 10 days above 4,500 meters and these altitudes take a toll on your body.
Also, don´t underestimate the effects of the harsh climate on your general mood. This is a tough, sometimes hostile landscape. Most of the time it´s cold and windy, the cleanliness in the lodges often leaves a bit to be desired. At higher altitudes, sometimes you don`t even have running water because the water pipes would freeze at night. Getting out of your warm sleeping bag in the morning can be a struggle.
All of this can certainly get on your nerves after a time. I experienced this myself in Dzonghla, when a Czech hiker had a minor nervous breakdown in the morning and just didn’t want to continue. Trekking burnout. After a rest day, plenty of warm tea and a lot of coaxing from her friends, she was back on her feet again, though. We met again later in Gokyo, and the group finished their trek as planned.
A few more detailed notes on the difficulties:
Trails
Path through moraines shortly before Everest Base Camp.
The trails are easy, wide footpaths until Namche, after that mostly rocky trails. In many places you walk through scree and boulder fields, especially around the passes. Here the paths can be quite steep, however they are never excessively exposed. Still, you usually cover less distance than you might think initially.
Navigation
Signpost to Renjo La. The trails are only occasionally signposted.
The paths are not consistently marked. Sometimes you´ll find a signpost at the beginning of the stage, at times arrows or blazes painted on rocks. However, there are many unmarked trails. So you should be able to navigate proficiently. A GPS device/smartphone with the GPS track as well as a physical map of the region are certainly helpful.
On the Three Passes Trek you will cross three glaciers:
Cho-La glacier
Khumbu glacier
Ngozumpa glacier
As mentioned above, crossing the Cho-La glacier is pretty straightforward. Except for the first short ascent, it´s not particularly steep and the route is well marked with poles. So, in good conditions, there is no danger of falling into a hidden crevasse, let alone seeing one. Just follow the poles, stay off the mountain slopes (rockfall) and you´ve crossed the glacier in about 30 minutes.
Crossing the Cho-La glacier.
The other two glaciers are wide, debris-covered valley glaciers. I found these to be more difficult because you have to walk through scree and moraine rubble. The correct route is marked with poles or flags, and sometimes with cairns. Nevertheless, wayfinding takes its time – you need about 2-3 hours for each glacier, even though it´s only a few kilometers.
On both glaciers, you will also cross areas that are at least somewhat prone to rockfall – for details, see the descriptions of the stages.
Fascinating views on the Ngozumpa glacier: Behind the semi-frozen meltwater lake the ice has formed a huge cliff.
One important note: All this applies to good weather conditions, i.e. good visibility, no rain or snow, and no icy sections of the trail. In bad weather the trails could become dangerous. Maybe it´s not even possible to cross the passes at all due to snow and ice. In this case, take a rest day.
Three Passes Trek with or without a guide?
Officially, no guide is required for the Everest Three Passes Trek. You can easily hike on your own. Whether or not that`s prudent is another matter. But at least no one forces you to take a guide. However, most people do the trek guided. I only saw one French trekker and a group from Malaysia who did the trek like me, without guide and porter.
Currently there´s some confusion about the whole guide issue in Nepal. Guides have allegedly been mandatory on all treks for foreign visitors since April 2023. However, the local district administration of the Solukhumbu region has openly refused this and invites individual trekkers to explore the region without a guide if they wish.
The question of whether you need a guide depends on three questions:
What about your own trekking experience?
Are you willing to organize the whole journey and book accommodation along the way on the spot?
Are you willing to carry your own luggage without the support of porters?
With less experience or if you don’t feel like organizing everything yourself, a guide can make sense. A local guide also offers the advantage of being able to explain local customs and point out interesting things along the way that you might otherwise miss. But I got the impression that most people take a guide mainly because it´s more convenient and you don’t have to worry about anything.
My experience going unguided
My personal experience as a solo trekker in the Everest region: everything was pretty easy to organize. Thanks to the lodges you need little gear. At the same time, it was a bit queer because in most lodges I was the only solo trekker without a guide among all the groups. This was quite different to the Annapurna Circuit, where you meet many solo backpackers and individual travelers.
In the Annapurna region it was also much easier to find company. Simply because many were in the same situation as I and had a natural interest to share experiences. Guided groups, on the other hand, tend to keep to themselves in my experience. That was sometimes kind of boring in the lodges when you didn’t have anyone to talk to in the evenings. In the smaller villages along the Three Passes Trek, e.g. in Chukhung, Dzonghla or Dragnag, I did meet a few nice people, though. So it wasn’t that bad after all.
5 things to keep in mind for going solo
My take on hiking Three Passes Trek on your own: Go for it, if you want – it`s a great experience. But only walk alone if you´ve done multi-day trekking tours at similar altitudes before and have a rough idea of what to expect and what your body can manage.
You should answer the following questions with a resounding “yes”:
Do you know how your body reacts at altitudes above 4,500 meters and how much distance/altitude you can realistically cover in a day in these conditions?
Can you outline a solid acclimatization plan for yourself that is based on past experience?
Can you navigate reliably even in poorly marked, sometimes trailless mountain terrain?
Can you cope with low temperatures over extended periods of time and do you know from your own experience what that feels like?
Do you have experience with bad weather/unfavorable conditions in the high mountains and do you know how to provide for your safely in such situations?
If you can answer all these questions with yes, the Three Passes Trek on your own should be a nice challenge and an exciting adventure. Organizing things is not a problem either. You can easily find lodges on the spot, the flight to Lukla is also booked in a matter of minutes (more on that below).
If you are unsure, I would take a guide. Or just do an easier trek. I deliberately chose the Annapurna Circuit as my first trek in Nepal. There you have only one pass, the trails are easier and the climate is much more friendly. The Three Passes Trek is certainly not the most difficult trek in Nepal, there are much more challenging ones. But it is a bit different than the usual lodge trek.
Approaching Kongma La at almost 5,300 meters.
Do you need to exercise for the Three Passes Trek?
That´s a question some readers have asked me: do you need special exercise for these high-altitude treks? Personally I didn`t exercise. However, I did the relatively challenging trek from Jiri to Lukla before. Basically that was my training and after that I didn’t have any problems.
If you start directly in Lukla, have not done any other trek before and otherwise do not exercise regularly, getting in shape might be useful. In this case, I would start building up my fitness about three months before the hike, e.g. by running regularly (2-3 times a week), and possibly also doing a few sessions to build up strength in the legs and core.
I would not recommend tackling the Three Passes Trek if you are completely out of shape. Of course, mindset matters – sometimes even more than fitness. But this is not the easiest trek in the world anyway. After the first day you face lots of long and steep ascents. So a little training won’t hurt – if only because you’ll enjoy the trek more if you’ve prepared.
Permits required
For the Everest Three Passes Trek you will require a permit for Sagarmatha National Park. Together with this permit, you get the Khumbu Trek Card – an electronic chip card that the authorities use to check the respective location of trekkers. You can get both the permit and the trek card on the spot: either in Lukla or in Monjo, right at the entrance to Sagarmatha National Park.
I paid a total of 2,000 NPR for the permit and trek card. According to the official statement of the district administration, the permit actually costs 3,000 NPR, the trek card another 2,000 NPR. So in total 5,000 rupees, but I didn`t have to pay that sum. Maybe it was just a mistake by the official at the counter, I`m not sure. Just to be on the safe side, I would expect costs of 5,000 rupees.
Permit issuing office at the national park entrance in Monjo.
For the permit and the chip card you only need your passport, no passport photos. When you apply, you have to state the starting and finishing point of your route, also the estimated time needed for the trek. That’s it, basically. The whole process is very straightforward and only takes a few minutes.
The permit is checked at the following locations:
Monjo (entrance and exit of the national park)
Shortly before Namche
Phunke Tenga
In Monjo, some trekkers had their backpacks checked, but not me (maybe because I just look trustworthy by nature:P). The use of drones is not allowed in the national park. Later at Everest Basecamp, I did see drones flying around though. So it seems that the ban is not always strictly enforced.
Gorak Shep – the highest village in the Everest region consists only of a few very simple lodges.
Overnight stays
The Three Passes Trek is a “teahouse trek”, which means you stay in a lodge every night. The standard is surprisingly high until Namche, the lodges are almost luxurious. After Namche, it gets more spartan. Nevertheless, I had a hot shower at every place I stayed overnight – quite a luxury considering the heights.
You can already find some lodges in the Khumbu on Booking, but not all. First come, first served is the rule. In the lesser frequented villages this is not a huge problem. However, on the route to Everest Basecamp Trek, popular lodges sometimes are quickly booked out due to the many groups.
Keep in mind, though: the whole region depends on tourism. So there´ll always be a place to sleep somewhere. Don´t worry too much. In the descriptions of the stages, I give a few tips for accommodation that I particularly liked.
Facilities at the lodges
The lodges usually consist of the rooms for the guests and a large lounge/dining room, which is heated with a stove starting in the afternoon. Which is a good thing, as it quickly gets very cold in the evenings. The sleeping rooms are unheated and usually not very well insulated against the cold. That’s why you only stay there to sleep.
Tip: Be sure to take a sleeping bag with you. In the lodges you get blankets for the beds, but most people find that insufficient. From Dingboche onwards, expect temperatures below freezing at night. Your sleeping bag should keep you warm to about -10°C (see equipment).
Depending on your preference, you can choose rooms with a private bathroom and toilet (“attached bathroom”) or rooms with shared bathroom facilities. I usually took the latter. From Chukhung there is no running water anymore, because it gets too cold at night and the pipes would freeze. Instead, you wash yourself from a large barrel in which the water is collected.
As mentioned, despite the high altitude, you can get a hot shower in many places – even in Gorak Shep, which is kind of crazy. However, the showers are often located in a stone shack outside. After sunset, it´s quite a struggle to shower because it´s simply too cold. Try to take a shower until 4 p.m. at the latest. Alternatively, you can just have a bowl of water heated. This is also a bit cheaper.
Internet
Even if you plan to disconnect completely for a few days, you have internet access pretty much anywhere on the Three Passes Trek. To use it, you buy a card with a numerical code from the lodges. With this code you connect to the “Everest Link Network”. The code is valid for 24 hours.
Good to know: The code also works if you change lodges. The lodge only needs to have access to the Everest Network – but that applies to 99% of the lodges. So, if you buy a card in the afternoon, you can use the code until the following afternoon, no matter where you are.
The quality of the internet connection varies. Sometimes you only have a good signal in the common room. On the trails, most of the time you won’t have a connection, of course; that would be asking a bit too much. You can get by with a normal SIM card as far as Namche. I got a local SIM with data from the provider Ncell in Kathmandu beforehand. Cost: NPR 600 for 60 GB, valid for 30 days.
How much does the Three Passes Trek cost?
The Three Passes Trek is a bit more expensive than other treks in Nepal because the entire Everest region is relatively costly. But let`s face it: that’s not a big surprise. After all, we are talking about the highest mountain in the world. The Nepalese could easily charge double for everything, people would still come in droves.
As a rough estimate, I would expect average costs of 6,000-7,000 rupees per day. This includes the cost of accommodation, breakfast, lunch and dinner, internet, and the occasional tea or snack. With this budget, you won’t have to worry about every rupee you spend.
Here a brief overview of typical prices on the Three Passes Trek:
Item
Price
cup of black tea
100 -200 Rupees
portion of spaghetti with tomato sauce
800 -1.000 Rupees
portion of Dal Bhat (+ free refill)
1.000 – 1.200 Rupees
portion of Momo 10 pieces
700 – 900 Rupees
Pizza
1.000 -1.200 Rupees
Snickers
500 Rupees
Coke
500 – 700 Rupees
bottle of beer
1.000 – 1.200 Rupees
roll of toilet paper
400 Rupees
pack of spare batteries
500 Rupees
pack of local cigarettes
500 Rupees
The basic rule: the higher you go, the more expensive it gets. After Namche prices rise sharply. At higher altitudes, in Gokyo or Lobuche for example, I sometimes spent over 7,000 rupees a day.
For comparison, check out the prices at my lodge in Gorak Shep, the highest village on the trek (click to enlarge):
Also keep in mind: In addition to the costs for accommodation and food, there are fees for using showers and internet. Charging cell phones or power banks also costs extra. Especially at higher altitudes, this can get quite expensive. A large power bank* is therefore useful.
The average prices here are as follows:
Hot shower: 800 rupees
Bowl of warm water: 400-500 rupees
Charging a cell phone: 400 rupees
Charging a power bank: 800 rupees
Internet via Wi-Fi: 750 rupees
Banks and cash
The Everest region is mainly a cash economy. There are some lodges that also accept credit cards, especially in Namche. However, you can’t rely on this 100%. Therefore, you should always have enough cash with you.
On the trek, you will find ATMs in these places:
Lukla
Cheplung
Phakding
Namche
Dingboche
The fact that you have an ATM in Dingboche, at over 4,000 meters of altitude, is of course quite marvellous. However, I wouldn´t rely on it working at all times. It is relatively safe to assume that you can withdraw money until Namche. However, better bring a sufficient amount of cash with you from Kathmandu. Note the daily limit when withdrawing (approx. 35,000 NPR).
In Namche Bazar there are several small bank branches. You can also change money here.
Supply and provisions
On the Everest Three Passes Trek you will regularly pass through villages. Therefore, it´s not necessary to carry large amounts of food. An exception to this are the pass days. These days are long and don`t offer rest stops along the way. Therefore, it is best to take a packed lunch with you. Just ask at the lodge – the owners will prepare something for you (hard-boiled eggs, chapati bread, Snickers etc).
As with everything, the higher you go, the more you pay for food because everything has to be carried up by porters/yaks. Therefore, it makey sense to stock up on snacks (e.g. Snickers) in Namche. Fresh fruit in particular are quite expensive later on. I still allowed myself an apple from time to time. Vitamin B is generally quite scarce, although the food in the lodges is otherwise excellent.
Shop in Namche Bazaar – later on the selection is smaller while prices tend to be higher.
Water supply and plastic waste
I didn’t bring a mechanical water filter with me because these filters can freeze and break at low temperatures. As an alternative, I used filter tablets*. In the lodges, you can fill up on tap water and clean that with the tablets. But I often also bought water.
Of course, that raises the question: what happens with the plastic waste? In my experience, however, the Sherpas have solved this quite well. There are rubbish bins in many places on the trails. The rubbish is regularly emptied and taken down to the valley; in the villages, there´s even a person responsible for taking care. This is quite different from the rest of Nepal.
In addition, trekkers are asked to take a garbage bag with them on the way back to Lukla. The drop-off point is at the checkpoint in Namche. This is a great idea, even tough it was closed when I was there. But my general impression was that the Everest region is pretty clean. They really have thought about waste disposal here, and it seems to work quite well.
Gear and equipment for the Three Passes Trek
Gearwise, the following three items are indispensable for the Everest Three Passes Trek:
Warm clothing to protect you from wind and cold
Sturdy hiking boots
Sleeping bag for sub-zero temperatures
These items are top priority. In addition, there are a few other useful things that we will take a closer look at in a moment. But first, let’s talk about the basics.
Clothing
I recommend layering, when it comes to clothes. You take different layers and combine them depending on the weather and outside temperatures. At the start of the trek until Namche, you can usually walk around in a T-shirt. Beginning in Chukhung, you will usually wear all layers.
The layers are:
Baselayer: T-shirt/longsleeve
Insulation/warmth: fleece shirt, ideally with a hood
weather protection (wind/rain): hardshell jacket
As a base layer, I used a normal merino T-shirt*, on top of that I wore an inexpensive fleece pullover that I bought in Kathmandu. That was completely fine, not everything they sell in Thamel is rubbish. A hood is very helpful for protection against wind.
As weather protection, I used my 3-layer Goretex jacket Montbell Stormcruiser*. This ultralight shell (less than 300 grams) is actually a rain jacket. However, thanks to the Goretex membrane it offers very good wind protection as well. Therefore, I didn`t need a seperate windbreaker.
Due to the strong winds, gloves* are essential – without them, your hands will freeze immediately. A buff* offers further protection, you can wrap it around your head and mouth in the form of a balaclava. The air at these altitudes is freezingly cold which irritates your throat whenever you breathe. Over time, this can lead to the infamous “Khumbu Cough” – a kind of dry cough. A buff will protect you from this.
Hiking to Island Peak Basecamp – without buff and gloves, which I came to regret later…
Always plan for emergencies
In mountain environments, it`s always best to have some emergency reserves for particularly bad weather. At altitudes above 5,000 meters, the weather can change quickly and turn very unpleasant in a matter of minutes. That’s why I brought the weatherproof down jacket Mountain Equipment Liteline* with me. With its 700-cuin filling the jacket is very warm, plus it´s extremely robust thanks to a 40D outer shell. I could have worn it with a backpack even in a blizzard.
Due to almost consistently good weather, that wasn’t necessary. But I always wore it in the evenings after the hike. Many people use a light 3-season down jacket* instead. That’s also fine, I still didn´t regret bringing a more robust model. Anyway, I would definitely pack some kind of puffy jacket. Even the Sherpa wear down jackets pretty much all time.
On the Three Passes Trek you will often walk through scree and numerous boulder fields. Therefore you need sturdy shoes that can handle rough terrain. If you tend to twist your ankle, it makes sense to choose ankle-high models. A water-resistant membrane is also useful for the glacier crossings. Trekking boots are a good choice, I like the Meindl Vacuum GTX* for instance. These boots are quite heavy, but they can take a beating (review).
For this hike I used the lightweight hiking boots Meindl Litehike GTX* instead, which I already used in the Peruvian Andes. They did the job, as Meindl shoes are typically pretty robust. However, now they are worn out. In the long run, the terrain is too tough for this kind of lightweight shoes. However, proper mountaineering boots with a rigid sole and crampon fastenings are not necessary either.
Crossing a glacier in lightweight hiking boots: not impossible, but the rough terrain takes a toll on these shoes over time.
Should you bring microspikes for crossing the glaciers?
I used the microspikes Snowline Chainsen* to cross the Cho-La glacier (review). Realistically, I could probably have done that without them. Nevertheless, I would still recommend that you take spikes with you. For one thing, because it’s safer. For another, because the nature of the trails can change depending on the weather.
It may well happen, for example, that the surface of the glacier or the trails are completely frozen due to runoff meltwater. Without spikes, it might be impossible to continue then. Also, in heavy snowfall, the steep approaches to the passes are likely to be rather unpleasant. I would therefore pay the small price of an extra 500 grams. Safety first, in my opinion.
Recommended sleeping bag
The sleeping bag should cover a temperature comfort range down to about -10°C. The lightweight (alas quite expensive) Western Mountaineering Versalite*, for example, would be well suited for this tour. I used the even lighter down quilt Katabatic Palisade* instead and was very satisfied with it.
The lodges provide thick fleece blankets, but I still wouldn’t want to do this trek without a sleeping bag or quilt. It gets very cold at night at altitudes of 3,500 meters and you will stay at even higher altitudes for a long time.
In addition, you should bring a small personal first-aid kit, documents and whatever else you need for trips to less developed countries. I will publish a special packing list for Nepal trekking on my blog at some point and go into a bit more detail there.
One important thing: Always pay attention to personal hygiene and always disinfect your hands before eating. Nepal is not the cleanest country in the world. In the mountains, it´s much better than in the cities, but I would still play it safe. You can buy medication in Kathmandu if necessary. However, it´s best to bring more specialized items with you from Europe.
A few more words about Diamox (medication for altitude sickness) can be found below in the “Acclimatization” section.
Getting to the Everest region
There are three options for getting to the Everest region:
Flight to Lukla
Jeep to Salleri/Paya
On foot from Jiri
Most people take the flight because that´s the fastest way. So, I will explain that first. The other options are described below.
Flight to Lukla
The flight to Lukla is the fastest and most straightforward option. The flight itself takes only about 30 minutes and costs around 180 euros (one way) for foreigners. However, there´s one problem: during the trekking season, only a few direct flights depart from Kathmandu to Lukla because Kathmandu’s small international airport is already overcrowded. Instead, the flights depart from Manthali in the district of Ramechhap.
Manthali is about a five-hour jeep ride from Kathmandu, which costs around NPR 2,000. The flight then takes another 20 minutes. The jeeps leave very early, around 1:30 a.m., because you have to be at the airport an hour before and the flights only leave in the morning. Alternatively, you can also arrive in Manthali the day before. This is also possible by public bus, the buses start at Ratna Park, about 10 minutes from Thamel.
Tip: For the flights, the maximum allowed weight is 10 kilograms for your backpack. This is actually checked before the trip at the airport. But a few hundred grams more won’t bother anyone.
As far as I know, you cannot book the flights from abroad. During the season, it´s not a problem to organize a flight spontaneously in Kathmandu, though. My tip: If you don’t want to do it on the spot, write a message to your accommodation in Kathmandu and ask them to organize it in advance. That shouldn’t be a problem. At this opportunity you could also organize the jeep transfer.
The airstrip in Lukla is quite short…
Jeep to Salleri/Paya
If you don’t want to fly, there´s the option of taking a jeep from Kathmandu to Salleri. This is the next largest city, about 30 kilometers south of Lukla. The journey takes about 10 hours. You can expect to pay 5,000 NPR (about 30 euros) for a shared jeep. A private jeep would cost around 250 euros. It´s best to organize the jeep through your accommodation, alternatively through one of the many trekking agencies in Thamel.
When you arrive in Salleri, you take another jeep to Paya, which is the end of the road in the mountains. The journey takes about 4 hours and costs around 4,000 rupees. If you start early, you can walk from Paya to Phakding, the first stop after Lukla, on the same day. It is about 14 kilometers, and I have met some Nepali who have done it that way. So you need about 2 days from Kathmandu for the whole route.
Update 2025: The road from Salleri now goes all the way to Lukla.
On foot from Jiri
You can also trek from the lowlands to the mountains, starting in Jiri. This is the classic route that the Everest expeditions used in the past and also the route I chose. The drive from Kathmandu to Jiri is quite short and takes only about 4 hours by jeep. The trek from Jiri to Lukla or Phakding takes about 7 days. It´s not an easy trek, as you cross countless valleys and are constantly walking up and down.
On the last section of the trek from Jiri to Lukla, you share the path with many mules.
Big problem with the Jiri variant: The old trekking route is now largely accessible by road. There´s still a number of beautiful sections, but in many places you walk on or right next to ugly dirt roads. I found that quite unsatisfying and was glad when it was over. For the last section I actually took a jeep. Personally I wouldn’t really recommend the trek from Jiri to Lukla these days.
Return journey from Lukla to Kathmandu
It´s highly recommended to organize the return flight from Lukla to Kathmandu before the trek. I did that through my accommodation and had the ticket as a screenshot on my cell phone which was sufficient. You can even rebook the flight, but only to an earlier date. For example, if you finish the trek earlier, simply write to the accommodation and ask them to change the flight time. I did that and it was no problem.
In Lukla, flights are often canceled due to bad weather. So it may very well be that you have to reschedule on the spot. Therefore, you should definitely plan sufficient buffer days between the departure from Lukla and the international return flight from Kathmandu. I recommend at least 3 buffer days between the end of the trek and the flight home.
If you don’t get a flight in Lukla at all, you can also take a jeep back to Kathmandu. From Lukla you walk to Paya in about 5 hours and look for a jeep to Salleri there. From there you can take another jeep to Kathmandu. This will take you at least 2 days. Walking from Lukla to Salleri would take about 3-4 days, mostly on dirt roads and with many ups and downs.
Weather on the Three Passes Trek
I already mentioned it a couple of times: the climate on the Three Passes Trek is pretty rough. This is high mountain environment with an average altitude above 4,000 meters. There´s not much here besides rock, debris and glaciers. Add to that the thin, freezing air and powerful winds. The only way to keep warm here is by moving, sitting by the warm stove in the lodge or curled up in your sleeping bag.
Looking across the glacial lake Imja Tsho near Island Peak. It’s always cold out there, even when the sun is shining.
During my hike I had mostly good weather and bright sunshine almost every day. Still, during the day temperatures rarely rose above 5 °C. Many times, it actually felt much colder due to the strong winds. At night, of course, the temperatures dropped below zero. In Dzonghla, Lobuche and Gorak Shep, the water in my bottle froze during the night – even in my room. The accommodations are not insulated at all and only offer protection from wind.
Strong winds
While we’re on the subject: Expect strong winds from about 11:00 a.m. particularly at exposed spots. I experienced this almost every day and in these winds you lose body heat very quickly. During the hike to Island Peak Basecamp, for instance, I made the mistake to not bring gloves and buff. After two hours in the wind, I was practically frozen and could hardly move. Only after a liter of warm tea I felt like a living person again.
Therefore it´s important to start early, preferably no later than 7:00 a.m. This is especially true for the pass-days. With an early start you will reach the pass around 11:00 – 12:00, when the winds are not quite as strong. From about 14:00 onwards it gets seriously unpleasant. At this time, it´s better to be back in the valley.
It goes without saying that you should have a jacket that provides reliable protection against the wind.
Taking a short break on the way to Renjo La.
How to acclimatize and prevent altitude sickness
The Three Passes Trek is a high altitude trek all the way. You will climb above 4,000 meters mark relatively quickly and stay at even higher altitudes for a long time. Most likely, you´ll fly in from Kathmandu (1,350 m) to Lukla, which is already at almost 3,000 meters. Therefore, adaptating slowly to the altitudeis essential to enjoy the trek and avoid altitude sickness.
It´s recommended to ascend no more than 300-400 meters per day, a maximum of 500 meters. In my experience, you can push this a bit if you have already spent a few days above 3,500 meters. The emphasis here lies on “a bit”. If you ascend 50 meters more in a day, it´s unlikely that anything bad will happen. But this is different for everyone.
Elevation gain vs. sleeping height
The single most important factor in adjusting to the altitude is the “sleeping height”, i.e. the height at which you spend the night. This height should not be higher than 500 meters above the last place where you slept. So when we talked about the daily elevation gain that means:
You can gain 1,000 meters or more in altitude during the day as long as you descend to the recommended sleeping height in the evening. The altitude of the final destination of the day should be no more than 300 – 400 meters above the place where you started in the morning, at a maximum 500 meters.
The above itinereray is pretty conservative and follows the rule “no more than 500 meters of elevation gain per day”. The only exception is the section from Namche to Pangboche, where the sleeping altitude is 525 meters above the previous stage location. I had a slight headache in the evening on this stage. But the next morning everything was fine. After that, I didn´t experiece any problems for the rest of the trek.
I also recommend drinking enough, about 4-5 liters per day. On many stages this is easy, because you pass lodges regularly. At the passes it is a bit more difficult. Here I would bring 2 liters with me and drink enough before and after the hike. I mostly drank black tea, by the way.
Is it a good idea to use Diamox?
Diamox (Acetazolamide) is a medication in tablet form that is taken both preventively and for treating actual symptoms of altitude sickness. For prevention, half a tablet is recommended in the morning and evening. For acute cases, one tablet or more is recommended.
Diamox is used regularly on the treks in Nepal. Especially among commercial operators, who often operate within extremely tight time frames and don’t allow enough time for natural acclimatization. It´s quite common to see trekkers swallowing pills in the morning as if they were sweets. However, that´s not a good example to follow. Rather, it’s a sign that the acclimatization schedule is flawed in the first place.
Personally, I brought some Diamox tablets with me for emergencies but I didn’t use them. So far, I´ve never done that during my high-altitude treks. In my experience, you don’t need these pills if you take your time. However, a small supply for emergencies certainly won´t hurt. You can buy Diamox without a prescription in Kathmandu.
Rest days on the Three Passes Trek
A few words about rest days: 2 nights in Namche (3,440 m) are a must, after Namche you will ascend almost directly to 4,000. 3 nights are safer. This may sound overly cautious, but in my experience, you simply don’t get used to heights above 4,000 meters within a few days. For most people, this takes longer. And it’s always better to be safe than sorry.
Before the first pass, I spent 2 nights in Chukhung (4,730 m). That may also seem too cautious. However, one should not underestimate a pass crossing above 5,000 meters on challenging mountain trails. I would definitely spend at least one full day here and do a small acclimatization tour, for example to Chukhung Ri or to Island Peak Base Camp. After that, you should be quite well acclimatized and have no problems with the passes.
Proper walking technique for high altitudes
If you´ve done some high-altitude hikes before, you will probably know this recommendation: Always walk slowly and breathe evenly. It`s not about speed but about finding a consistent pace. And if you consciously slow down, you will end up being faster than those who push at the beginning but are forced to make breaks later on, because they are out of breath.
A good sign that you are walking at the right speed is if you can still breathe normally through your nose while moving. And don’t worry if this doesn’t quite work at the beginning: that´s the acclimatization process and it takes a while. It’s also normal to be out of breath even while ascending small hills. This will stop after a few days.
I have to admit that I didn’t follow these recommendations to the letter for a few days because I was already in good shape from the trek from Jiri to Lukla. So, I was able to push harder during some days. But whenever I did that, I was punished with a headache in the evening.
What to do in case of problems
If you experience severe headaches, severe nausea or severe weakness despite a slow ascent, and these symptoms won´t go away even after a long rest (overnight stay), there is only one solution: descend immediately.
This can certainly turn into a major problem: It´s not easy to descend quickly in rough terrain while your body is in a weakened state. Therefore, the only option is often to be transported out by helicopter.
I didn’t experience this myself on my trek, but the Everest Region is rife with helicopter flights. And if you ask the owners of the lodges, it´s almost normal that someone occasionally has to be flown out by “heli evac”. Of course, this is not cheap, prices start at around $1,500. You can find a detailed report on how such an evacuation works at Annika´s blog “Weltwanderin” (German only).
My recommendation: Definitely make sure you get full health insurance, if you don’t already have one. Personally, I always use the HanseMerkur*, I made good experiences with them in the past. The insurance covers the costs of rescue transports up to 5,000 euros in the event of an accident (which I didn´t use myself so far).
Another option (at least for Germans) is the insurance of the German Mountain Club. With the membership, you get insurance for accidents while engaging in mountaineering activities. This also includes trekking, but only if you organize the trip on your own. A guided trek with a tour agency, for example, is not covered.
Best time to travel for the Three Passes Trek
To wrap things up, let’s move to a more pleasant topic: the best time for the great Everest Trek. This is relatively simple. There are two main seasons for trekking in the Nepalese Himalayas, which are determined by the annual monsoon rains (June to September):
Before the monsoon: spring (mid-March to late May)
After the monsoon: fall (mid-September to late November)
In spring it´s a bit warmer in the Everest region, at least that’s what the guides told me. At this time of the year it can get hazy during the day in the lowlands But around Everest that’s not a big problem because of the high altitude. In April, I experienced almost consistently good weather with excellent views except for one cloudy day in Namche and a short afternoon shower in Dingboche.
One more thing: spring is the season for Everest expeditions. Summit attempts usually start from the beginning of May. So if you want to see Everest Basecamp in full swing, March/April is the best time. During fall, you will only see bare rocks here. In winter, the trek might be too difficult. Not only because of the low temperatures, but also because the passes might be blocked with snow.
Final tips
Last but not least, a few quick tips that might help you:
Currency: Nepalese Rupee (NPR). For 1 Euro you get about 140 NPR.
Time difference to Central Europe: + 03:45 hours/+ 04:45 hours (depending on summer or winter time)
Water: Do not drink tap water unless you have filtered it or treated it in some other way.
Hygiene: Use hand sanitizer regularly, especially before eating.
Toilet paper: Not usually available in the lodges. However, you can buy it in every village along the way.
Spare time: The daily stages are often quite short. So, a deck of playing cards, an e-book reader, etc. for the afternoons in the lodge can’t hurt.
Low temperatures: Try to keep batteries, smartphones, and power banks as warm as possible, e.g. by carrying them close to your body. Otherwise, the cold will cause them to discharge more quickly.
My verdict on the Three Passes Trek
Sublime, breathtaking, awe-inspiring – on the Three Passes Trek I quickly ran out of adjectives to describe the extraordinary landscape of the high Himalayas. One thing stayed with me right to the end, though: The feeling that I was hiking through one of the most spectacular mountain environments on earth.
Were there downsides? Well… personally, I found the touristic development in the Everest region a bit overwhelming, especially the constant helicopter flights. But that’s probably the price you have to pay for making the highest mountain on earth accessible to everyone.
In the end, that did not alter my feelings, however. The Three Passes Trek is a unforgettable journey offering hikers everything we love: majestic landscapes, exciting trails, a bit of a challenge at the passes – and, of course, the warm-hearted Nepali culture. If you want to do a teahouse trek in the Everest region this is the way to go!
I can’t get out of bed in the morning without coffee and can’t experience new adventures 🙂
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Do you have any questions about the Everest Three Passes Trek? Do you know any other exciting treks in Nepal? Let me know in the comments – I look forward to hearing from you!
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