How to hike Annapurna Circuit solo + unguided on the new trails
The Annapurna Circuit is the most famous trekking tour in Nepal. Unfortunately, with the construction of roads its reputation has suffered in recent years. Is this legendary trek still worthwhile in the 21st century? To find out, I spent more than 30 days in the Himalayas – going without a guide and, whenever possible, on new paths off the beaten track. In this article I`m going to provide you with an honest view and all the important information you need.
Important information: From April 1, 2023, trekking without a guide is alledgedly banned in Nepal. However, individual tours on the Annapurna Circuit are currently still possible. You can find the latest information here.
The Annapurna Circuit: 250 kilometers through the Himalayas, one of the most famous treks in the world – a dream come true for every hiker. Like many before me, I had this trail in the back of my mind for years. Since the route opened to tourists in the late 1970s, thousands of Western trekkers must have made their way to the Himalayas to see the world’s tallest mountains with their own eyes.
It is simply a legendary tour that is hard to resist – and maybe you are also considering it…
The big problem: The Annapurna region has been systematically developed with roads for about 15 years. The old route is history – large parts of it have now been transformed into a dusty dirt road. And if you go with the guided tours, there is a relatively high chance that you will be hiking 24/7 on a dirt road alongside motorbikes, jeeps and tractors.
Not exactly why you go trekking in the Himalayas.
The new trails of the Annapurna Circuit
Fortunately, there is a solution to the road problem. Since 2010, a handful of trekking enthusiasts have been volunteering to explore new paths off the beaten track. The goal: to restore the Annapurna Circuit to its former glory. The promise: You can do the whole trip again on proper hiking trails away from the road: the so-called NATT trails (Natural Annapurna Trekking Trail).
When I first heard about this, I immediately took notice: this sounded exciting and seemed worth a try!
The big question, of course, is: what does it really look like? I’ll go into more detail below. But just in advance: if you approach it the right way and don’t expect a hardcore wilderness trek in absolute solitude, the Annapurna Circuit is still a great adventure. But these days you definitely have to plan ahead to avoid disappointment. And to make sure that happens, here is everything you need to know for the best experience on the Annapurna Circuit.
This is going to be a very long post, so here we go!
At a glance:
The most famous trekking tour in Nepal (and perhaps the world)
Spectacular lodge trekking through almost all of Nepal’s climate zones
Length: approx. 250 km
: variable, approx. 14-21 days, shorter options possible
Highest point: Thorong La, 5,416 m
Difficulty: moderate
Adventure rating: high
Accommodation and meals in guest houses and lodges
Camping and tents allowed and possible
One note: I organized the tour on my own and did the whole trek without a guide. This is easily doable, the infrastructure is excellent. However, I have done many trekking tours in the Alps and other countries in recent years. So this was not my first longer hike.
If you lack experience, it may make sense to hire a local guide. In this case, however, I would discuss the route in detail beforehand to avoid walking long sections of the trek on the road. You will find tips on the most beautiful off-piste trails below.
Don’t trust the commercial agencies and guides to show you these paths by themselves. Unfortunately, the motivation for doing so is not very pronounced, because it is much more convenient to lead people along the road.
What to expect on the Annapurna Circuit
If I had to summarize the Annapurna Circuit briefly, it would be like this: The perfect cultural trek with a good deal of beautiful landscapes in front of some of the highest mountains on earth. The real highlight, though, is the incredible diversity. You hike from the humid tropics to icy heights and back again – basically through almost all the landscapes and climates that Nepal has to offer.
Despite the construction of roads, the Annapurna Circuit is still a great journey on foot. A journey that will fill your mind with a thousand impressions. Rice fields in the steep terraces of the mountain slopes. Mani stones and prayer wheels at the wayside. Traditional villages where people share their homes with goats and sheep, while a motorcycle rattles by and the mighty snow-capped peaks of the Himalayas sparkle in the sun. Prayer flags fluttering in the piercing cold air on the way to the 5,400-meter-high Thorong-La Pass.
Is the Annpurna Circuit overcrowded?
The Annapurna Circuit is not lonely. Except for a few days around the Thorong-La Pass, you will be walking through densely populated areas – you pass a village every few hours at the latest. In addition, the route is world-famous, so there are many other people here. On the side trails, you will often have your peace and quiet. But you won’t find true wilderness on the Annapurna Circuit.
What should also be mentioned: the ongoing road construction and the flow of tourists are ensuring that modernity is reaching even the most remote villages – including internet, smartphones and the other achievements of so-called civilization. But for me, that was also an interesting experience. On the Annapurna Circuit, you don’t get to see any kitschy clichés, but the real Himalayas of the 21st century with all its contradictions.
To be honest, there are some ugly sections along the route. But at the same time, also many beautiful sights, exciting cultural insights, wonderfully diverse nature and the elusive magic of Asia. At least for me, the beautiful impressions far outweighed the ugly ones in the end. I can well imagine that it will be the same for you!
Hiking guides and maps
My recommendation: Himalayan Travel Guides – Trekking the Annapurna Circuit
The excellent hiking guide “Trekking the Annapurna Circuit*” from Himalayan Travel Guides is currently the best book available for the Annapurna Circuit and my top recommendation for hikers without a guide.
This handy book describes every conceivable side route in detail – including paths that even the locals don’t know about. It also includes tips for other tours in the south of the region, such as the ABC trek and the Mardi Himal trek.
Together with a good hiking map*, this book will not let you down!
The Rother hiking guide* for the Annapurna circuit is a bit more professionally designed and also quite okay. However, there are not nearly as many secondary routes described. The book is particularly suitable if you don’t want to plan as much, but just want a convenient route to follow. Fortunately, the most well-known alternative routes are included.
I used the Around Annapurna* map from Nepa Maps at a scale of 1:70,000. The scale is sufficient and all the important paths, the route, towns and lodges are correctly marked on it. You can of course also get the map in Kathmandu or Pokhara. But I would get it beforehand for planning.
The Annapurna Circuit circles the entire Annapurna massif over a distance of around 250 kilometers. The mountain range is part of the Himalayas and is located in the Annapurna Conservation Area, the largest nature reserve in the country in central Nepal. The massif contains several peaks over 7,000 meters. These include the 8,091-meter-high Annapurna I, which was the first 8,000-meter peak to be climbed in 1950.
GPS tracks for the Annapurna Circuit to download:
You will need between 18 and 21 days for the entire circuit. There are many side trips and shorter treks possible away from the main route. I took many of them and spent a total of 32 days in the region. There are people who do the Annapurna Circuit in just 14 days and leave out parts. Personally, I would rather not recommend this, because the trek thrives on the overall impression. If you don’t have that much time, it’s probably best to omit the section after Muktinath.
Most people walk the loop counterclockwise for better acclimatization. The starting point is the village of Besisahar, which is about 100 km northwest of Kathmandu. From here, the trail follows the Marsyangdi River north through subtropical landscapes. As you ascend, the rice fields and bananas slowly fall behind, while the landscape becomes increasingly mountainous. An enchanting experience!
At Pisang, you enter the Buddhist part of the Himalayas. The air gets cool, the mountains loom up higher and higher. From now on, the mighty ice-peaks of the Annapurna massif will accompany you on your way. You will hike over barren high pastures to Manang, and from there through lonely valleys in increasingly thinner air to the Thorong-La high pass – at 5,416 meters the highest point of the tour.
On the way to Thorong La pass, which is over 5,000-meter-high.
Thorong La is only the halfway point, however: after the pass you will reach the temple of Muktinath, one of the most important pilgrimage sites in Hindu religion. After crossing the deep gorge of the Kali Ghandaki River, you will spend several days walking through the windy high altitude desert of Mustang and fascinating villages shaped by Tibetan Buddhism. At the hot springs of Tatopani, you will finally return to tropical climes.
Here, you face one last hard ascent, which will take you through blooming rhododendron forests to Ghorepani. As a reward, you can enjoy a last view of the Himalayas at sunrise on the famous Poon Hill. After that, it is only a stone’s throw to Nayapul, where the buses to Pokhara leave. If you have more time, explore the charming hilly landscape south of the Annapurna massif from Ghorepani.
Südlich des Annapurna-Massivs erwarten dich tolle subtropische Landschaften und viele bunte Dörfchen.
Overview of the stages of the Annapurna Circuit
Without detours and rest days, it took me 20 days to circle the Annapurna massif. After that, I did the Annapurna Basecamp Trek and the Mardi Himal Trek. More information below. The most popular detour on the circuit, which almost everyone does, is the trek from Manang to Tilicho Lake (about 3 days). Of course, I wanted to see it too, but unfortunately I had caught a cold and had to turn back.
The following overview shows how I divided the stages of the hike in the Annapurna region. Just click on the respective stage for a detailed description.In the posts, you will find information about the paths away from the road, accommodation options and a few nice insider tips that you won’t find in any guidebook.
Check out this film about the Annapurna Circuit on YouTube:
Alternative route suggestions for the Annapurna Circuit
Maybe you don’t have the full three weeks or don’t want to do the whole tour for other reasons. This is not a big problem, since almost the entire route is now accessible by road. From Besisahar, a dirt road leads to Manang. On the other side of the pass, the dirt road leads from Muktinath all the way down to the lowlands.
This means that you can easily shorten the route, for example by starting the trek at a later location or by having yourself driven back earlier. Many people, for example, only spend two weeks on the circuit. The important thing is to allow yourself enough time at the beginning to acclimatize to the high altitudes. More about this below.
Possible starting points of the Annapurna Circuit
From what I saw and heard on the trek, these were the most popular starting points of the Annapurna Circuit:
Location
Altitude
Distance from Besisahar
Distance to Manang
Besisahar
760 m
–
110 km
Bhulbhule
840 m
7 km
103 km
Tal
1.700 m
43 km
67 km
Chame
2.670 m
70 km
40 km
Starting in Besisahar
Besisahar has been the classic start of the route since the early 2000s because the buses from Pokhara and Kathmandu stop here. From here, many people just continue on the road. However, there are now also two very nice nature trails off the beaten track. Besisahar is therefore definitely a good point to start the trek.
Start in Bhulbhule
A few kilometers further north is Bhulbhule, behind it the small village of Ngadi. These places are especially interesting for people who arrive too late at night and don’t have time to hike there on the first day. That’s exactly what happened to me, and I just took the bus to Bhulbhule. With this option, you will miss very little of the beautiful lower part of the circuit.
Start in Tal
Tal is also a popular starting point. I met many individual trekkers who were driven there by jeep. Tal is located at 1,700 meters, so you still have plenty of time to acclimatize. On the other hand, you will miss the entire tropical section of the circuit, as you start directly in the temperate climate zone.
Start in Chame
Chame at 2,670 meters is the last place that makes sense to start. This way you will have at least one more day before you crack the 3,000-meter mark. There are groups that travel directly to Manang (3,540 m). This is not recommended, as you could face altitude sickness at this height. I would start in Chame at the very latest and allow myself 2-3 days to reach Manang from there.
As mentioned, many people don’t walk the entire route and get off somewhere behind the Thorong-La Pass. For the people I met, these were the most popular places to end the Annapurna Circuit:
Location
Altitude
Distance from Thorong La
Muktinath
3.700 m
10 km
Jomsom
2.720 m
32 km
Tatopani
1.190 m
94 km
Ghorepani
2.860 m
102 km
Nayapul
1.070 m
110 km
End in Muktinath
Muktinath is the end point of the Annapurna Circuit for quite a few trekkers, as it is directly behind the Thorong-La Pass. From here, many take a jeep to Jomson and from there take the plane to Pokhara. Unfortunately, this means you miss some very beautiful sections in Mustang and ultimately only walk half of the Annapurna Circuit. However, a visit to the temple would be a nice way to end.
End in Jomsom
Jomson is also a popular final destination because there is an airport with connections to Pokhara. The Tibetan villages on the way were a highlight of the whole tour for me. If you want to get off early, I would at least walk to Jomson and visit Jhong and Kagbeni on the way. Jomson itself is not a pretty town and a somewhat unsatisfying end to such a great hike.
Tip: I would at least think twice about taking the plane – the Nepalese domestic airlines have a notoriously bad reputation. There have been several crashes in recent years, including flights starting and ending in Jomsom. Among the victims were also trekkers on the Annapurna Circuit.
End in Tatopani
Tatopani is famous for its hot springs, which is why many people end their trek at this place. I found the trail to be mediocre. There are some beautiful nature trails to Kalopani, but also really ugly sections on gravel roads. On the eastern side of the Kali Gandaki there is a nature trail from Kalopani to Tatopani. Unfortunately, I did not take it because of bad weather and hitchhiked this section.
End in Ghorepani
Ghorepani was my last stop on the classic route. From here you can climb to Poon Hill and take one last look at the Annapurna range at sunrise. The perfect end to this tour! From here you either walk a short distance to Ulleri and take the jeep. Or you can add another day and walk on to Nayapul, where jeeps and buses also leave for Pokhara.
Ghorepani is a nice fnish because you can climb nearby Poon Hill.
How to combine the Annapurna Circuit with the Annapurna Basecamp Trek and other treks
If you have a little more time, you can easily combine the Annapurna Circuit with other treks in the southern Annapurna region. A good starting point for this is Ghorepani. From here you can add the Poon Hill Panorama Trek, the Annapurna Basecamp Trek (ABC-Trek) or the Mardi Himal Trek to your round trip.
Fancy an adventure at Everest? Then check out my big guide to the infamous Three Passes Trek:
Annapurna Circuit + Poon Hill Trek
The best place to start the Poon Hill trek is Ghorepani, which you will reach on the Annapurna Circuit anyway (if you do the full circuit). From here, you continue after sunset on Poon Hill to Tadapani, then to Ghandruk and then in a long loop further and further down into the valley to Dhampus. This will take you about 4-5 days extra, depending on where you end the tour.
The Poon Hill trek was one of my highlights in the Annapurna region. Yes… the tour is well known and there are many people on the road, but the tropical green landscapes are amazing. And there are many opportunities to avoid the crowds on lesser-known paths. So I highly recommend this trek! If you want to trek for another week, this would be my first choice.
The Annapurna Basecamp Trek starts in the village of Chomrong, which you can easily reach from Ghorepani in two days. From there, the route takes you into a glacial valley right in front of Annapurna I – a pretty impressive sight. The first part of the route is the same as the Poon Hill Panorama Trek. At Tadapani, however, you then branch off to the northeast in the direction of Chomrong. In total, you will need about a week extra for this.
The highly recommended Annapurna Base Camp Trek leads right into the heart of the Annapurna massif.
I did it as follows:
Day 1: Up to Poon Hill in Ghorepani in the morning, then on to Tadapani
Day 2: Tadapani to Chomrong, then on to Sinuwa
Day 3: Sinuwa to Deurali
Day 4: Deurali to Annapurna Basecamp
Day 5: Sunrise at Annapurna Basecamp, then back to Sinuawa and on to Jhinu Danda
Day 6: Jhinu Danda to Landruk
Day 7: Landruk to Dhampus
Since you will already be well acclimatized by this time, you don’t have to worry about the altitude (max. 4,400 meters). Of course, you can also take a little more time. But the tour is not particularly long in terms of distance (about 40 km round trip starting in Chomrong).
After that, you can walk via Landruk to Dhampus. This will take you about three days.
Even further east, the Mardi Himal Trek branches off from the Poon Hill Panorama Trek. The starting point for this is the village of Landruk. From here, the route goes through dense subtropical forests up to the Mardi Himal ridge, a mountain ridge on the eastern side of the Modi Khola valley. In principle, you can combine this detour with all the variants. If you only do this trek, you will need about 6-7 days extra.
Many people start the Mardi Himal Trek as a stand-alone tour from Pokhara, which is probably better. The views from the ridge are not bad. However, if you have just come from the Annapurna Circuit, it probably won’t blow your mind. At least that’s how I felt. Of all the options, I would therefore recommend this trek the least.
Let’s get to the tiresome topic of “roads”… and I don’t want to sugarcoat anything here: you will encounter a relatively large number of them on the Annapurna Circuit. However, in Nepal they have a slightly different idea of what counts as a road. In reality, most of them are dirt roads, i.e. gravel tracks. These are used by jeeps, buses, tractors and motorbikes, and sometimes by no one at all.
The only completely road-free section is the three stages around the Thorong La Pass. From Besisahar, a dirt road leads to Manang and even a little further into the mountains. On the other side of the pass, a dirt road (partly paved) leads from Muktinath to Tatopani. Many smaller paths and side routes have also been converted to dirt roads, and road construction continues at every turn.
The road behind Manang is currently being expanded. According to rumors, the road will even be extended to the Thorong-La Pass in the future.
Classic nature trails and mountain paths are therefore not that common on the Circuit. But they do exist! Often, the trails designated as nature trails are simply dirt roads with little or no traffic. My impression was: Wherever it`s possible and makes sense, all trails are gradually being converted to dirt roads. Unfortunately, sometimes even when it doesn’t make sense…
To be honest, though, many dirt roads aren’t that bad and aren’t much different from slightly wider hiking trails. Fortunately, there are still some really beautiful natural trails. Many of these trails run through pretty rough or remote terrain that it’s unlikely that any roads will be built here in the future.
Nature trail on the way to Jagat. It’s hard to imagine that this path will one day become a road…
What about the new NATT trails on the Annapurna Circuit?
The national park administration ACAP has long recognized that the roads are a problem. Western visitors don’t want to hike on dusty gravel roads. And if the tourists stay away, Nepal – a developing country that depends on trekking tourism – will lose an important source of income.
On the other hand, many inhabitants want the roads. Only with roads can you transport goods cheaply and ensure access to medical care. A real dilemma. Perhaps it is therefore not surprising that the solution did not come from the official side, but from two passionate trekking fans: the Belgian Andrèes de Ruiter and the local guide Prem Rai.
Since 2010, the two have undertaken numerous long tours in the Annapurna region to find forgotten paths and side routes off the beaten track. Surprisingly, they then managed to persuade ACAP to mark these newly discovered routes similar to how we do it in Europe. The Natural Annapurna Trekking Trails (NATT) were born.
The main route is marked in red, the side route which avoids the road, in blue. In most cases, the detours involve additional elevation gain.
Red vs. blue NATT trails
Nowadays, a large part of the Annapurna Circuit can be walked on these NATT trails. The old route – now largely a road with more or less traffic – is thus history. This might be sad. On the other hand, trekkers now have a new Annapurna Circuit. A round trip where it really makes sense to cover the distance on foot.
You will encounter two types of NATT trails along the way:
Main route: red-white marking – the official route of the “new” Annapurna Circuit
Side route: blue-white marking – alternative routes for people who have more time and/or want to get to know more parts of the region
In many cases, the new route runs above or below the old route. Sometimes it is on the other side of the valley. If there is not enough space the old and new routes sometimes cross – usually to the disadvantage of the trail. In some places, I had the feeling that the new route exists more as an excuse – tp at least making you feel like you are hiking and not just walking on the road.
Are the new trails worth it?
The classic “original” route is more elegant, in my opinion. It`s more or less the ideal line around the Annapurna massif. The new route, on the other hand, sometimes feels a bit like a patchwork of side trails and access roads. And as mentioned, many of the NATT trails are also “just” dirt roads, but ones that are less traveled or not traveled at all.
But that’s not to say that the new route is bad! The best sections on the Annapurna Circuit are definitely on the new NATT trails. I would rank the high-altitude trails from Ghermu to Jagat and Upper Pisang to Braka among the most scenically exciting mountain trails I have walked on so far. So, the NATT trails are definitely preferable to the old route!
On the high route to Bhraka – one of the most beautiful NATT trails on the Annapurna Circuit.
My top NATT trails on the Annapurna Circuit
I would definitely recommend walking the following NATT trails. These routes offer great views, little to no traffic and beautifully nature trails – often all three. They are among my personal highlights on the Annapurna Circuit:
Ngadi – Ghermu via Bahundanda
Ghermu – Jagat, high trail via Tallo Chipla
Chamje – Tal via Sattale
Upper Pisang – Ngawal, high route via Ghyaru
Ngawal – Bhraka, high route via Julu <<Top tip – not to be missed!
Muktinath – Kagbeni via Jhong
Marpha – Kokethani via Chimang and Sauru
Kalopani – Tatopani via Pairothapla (not walked myself, but according to hearsay it is supposed to be very beautiful)
Tatopani – Gorephani via Shika and Chitre
Note: The side routes usually involve a little more elevation gain. But trust me – the views are worth it!
Lonely signpost in the mountains north of Jomsom.
How good is the Annapurna Circuit signposted?
A few words about the signposts on the Annapurna Circuit. I was honestly surprised how well they were implemented. Some of the signs even show walking times similar to those in the Alps. The larger junctions are almost always well marked with arrows, signposts and splashes of color. If you know roughly what your next destination is, there shouldn’t be any major problems.
But I still wouldn’t set off without the map recommended above. The hidden side routes in particular are not always easy to see. And you will pass a million unmarked trails and dirt roads that cannot always be clearly distinguished from the path. That’s why it also makes sense to take a GPS device or smartphone with the GPS track.
Accommodation on the Annapurna Circuit
The Annapurna Circuit is a classic “teahouse trek”, which means that there are lodges and accommodation along the route at regular intervals where you can stay overnight. Since the whole region relies heavily on tourism, there are more than enough places to stay. Some towns even consist almost entirely of lodges for tourists.
It is not possible to book the lodges in advance. At least not if you are an individual trekker without local contacts. First come, first served. If you arrive later, it may happen that all the places in the lodge are already taken, especially if a large group has been accommodated somewhere. However, there will always be a place for you somewhere. So don’t worry about it too much.
Places where you can find lodges are marked on the Annapurna Circuit hiking map. You can also find many lodges with Google Maps. Since new ones are constantly being built, there are of course also a number of lodges that are not listed anywhere. In the descriptions of the individual stages, I give a few tips for recommended accommodation where I have stayed overnight.
Cost of accommodation
The traditional rule is: trekkers do not have to pay for accommodation if they order at least two meals (e.g. dinner and breakfast) at the lodge. However, I had the impression that this tradition is slowly dying out and that the owners are starting to charge a small amount for accommodation. Usually 200 – 400 NPR, but sometimes more.
I didn’t pay for the night anywhere until Manang and did it as follows: First, I always looked at the room and if everything was okay, I asked: “When I eat everything here, breakfast, dinner, lunch and drinks, will I get the room for free?” I always got a straight “yes” in response. Sometimes with the added note not to tell the other people. Otherwise they might get the wrong idea…
Bedroom at my lodge in Jhong -this was one of the simpler lodges, but still quite comfortable.
Facilities at the lodges
The lodges are simple but fairly comfortable, and of course a bit more spartan at higher altitudes. There were hot showers almost everywhere up to Manang. After that, only “hot buckets” were available up to the pass, i.e. a bucket of hot water for washing. From 3,000 meters up, there was a hot stove in the common rooms that was lit in the evening. You will get thick fleece blankets to sleep under. If you wish, you can also get additional blankets if it is too cold. You can charge cell phones and other devices in all lodges, sometimes for a small fee (100-200 NPR).
Almost all lodges advertise free Wi-Fi. The connection was sometimes surprisingly good, but often quite poor, especially the higher you went. So don’t rely on it 100%. Behind Manang to Muktinath I had no reception at all for three days. Personally, that didn’t bother me too much. But if you want to send a sign of life again beforehand, it’s best to do so in good time before the pass. In Manang you still have quite good internet.
At Thorong High Camp. The lodge up here was pretty basic, but they still served good food and the lounge was quite cozy.
Before the trek: Hotel tip for Kathmandu
Here is a good tip for accommodation in Kathmandu – you can also store luggage that you don’t need for the trek there. The Kwabahal Garden Hostel* is one of the best hostels in Kathmandu. Absolutely recommended!
Is camping in tents allowed on the Annapurna Circuit?
Camping is possible on the Annapurna Circuit, as far as I know there are no prohibitions. There are also a number of treks in the region that are only possible with a tent. However, you will need to take the tent and camping equipment with you. A warm sleeping bag is important, as it gets quite cold at night at over 3,000 meters. In spring, I would take a sleeping bag with a comfort range of down to -5° C.
Whether it’s worth it is another matter. Camping in the Himalayas is of course quite the experience. On the other hand, the lodges cost so little that it hardly makes a difference in terms of money. In the end, you have to decide whether it is worth the effort of lugging all the camping stuff around. But with such good infrastructure as on the Annapurna Circuit, I would probably rather stay in the lodges and save myself the extra weight.
Annapurna Circuit: Costs and daily expenses at a glance
The most expensive part of the Annapurna Circuit is the flight to Nepal. Once you are in the country, you will find that almost everything is really cheap – about 15-20 euros for an overnight stay with food. Overall, the Annapurna Circuit is a fairly inexpensive trek, especially if you don’t spend money on alcohol and other luxuries every day.
As a rough guide, I would calculate 30-40 euros per day for the trek (about 4,000 – 5.000 rupees). This way you are on the safe side and can treat yourself to a beer or two in the evening without having to count every penny. Incidentally, beer is pretty much the most expensive thing of all. By contrast, food is comparatively inexpensive, especially the Nepalese national dish, dal bhat.
The best way to save money
If you want to save money, do as the Nepalese do and eat lots of dal bhat. Dal bhat consists of rice, lentils and seasonal vegetables, and the Nepalese eat it three times a day, even in the morning. The big advantage of Dal Bhat: you get as much free refill as you want. Admittedly, this can get a bit boring over time. And I couldn’t resist ordering a pizza every now and then. But in terms of price, Dal Bhat is unbeatable.
Here are a few typical prices on the Annapurna Circuit:
Item
Price
Cup of Lemon Tea
80 – 100 Rupees
Coca Cola 500 ml
200 – 250 Rupees
Can of Beer 700 ml
650 – 700 Rupees
Snickers
100 – 200 Rupees
Portion Dal Bhat (+ kostenloser Nachschlag so viel du willst)
500 – 600 Rupees
Portion of Dal Bhat (+ free refills as much as you want)
800 Rupees
Portion Momo 10 Pieces
400 – 500 Rupees
Portion Spaghetti
400 – 600 Rupees
Pizza
600 – 800 Rupees
Pack of Cigarettes
150 – 250 Rupees
Toiletpaper
100 – 150 Rupees
Pack of Spare Batteries
100 – 200 Rupees
The prices for meals are standardized and set by the Nepalese Tourism Board. Generally speaking, the higher you go, the more expensive it gets. Incidentally, in addition to these “tourist prices”, there are also the real local prices, which are significantly lower (e.g. a cup of tea for 5 rupees). But to get those, you definitely have to get off the main route and into the small villages.
For your convenience I took a picture of a menu from a lodge. That was quite a way down, in the village of Jagat (click to enlarge).
Another issue is drinking water. You can also buy water in the lodges, but only in plastic bottles. And the waste disposal in the Annapurna region leaves much to be desired. If you leave the empty plastic bottles at the lodge, they will most likely be dumped somewhere in nature or burned.
A good solution is to use filter tablets* or a water filter*. This allows you to filter the water in the lodges yourself and pour it into your own bottle. I use this handy folding bottle for this:
I have also marked official water points on the GPS track. But here too, you should definitely filter the water first! Never drink unfiltered water in Nepal, no matter where it comes from.
Withdrawing money and ATMs on the Annapurna Circuit
Be sure to take enough cash with you for the trek! The Annapurna Circuit is a pure cash economy, credit cards are only accepted in very few places. The last place where you can withdraw money before the start of the trek is Besisahar. After that, you can find ATMs in these places:
Dharapani
Manang
Jomsom
Nayapul
It is not 100% certain that the machines will work. The ATM in Dharapani worked for me. In Manang it was out of order, and in Jomsom I could not withdraw money either. Fortunately, I had a sufficient supply with me, otherwise I would have had a problem. If you use a machine, it’s best to use one in a bank. Otherwise, good luck when the ATM eats the card.
How much money do you need in total?
To calculate how much money you need on the Annapurna Circuit, you can calculate as follows:
First, see how many days you expect to walk the Annapurna Circuit.
Then multiply the number of days by the total for each day.
After that, add a certain emergency amount, e.g. for unexpected jeep rides, etc.
If you have a guide, you pay 50% of the costs before the trek and the rest after, when you are back in town.
Let’s say you stay for 20 days, that would be 20 x 4,000 rupees = 80,000 rupees. Then another 20,000 rupees for emergencies. In total, you will need 100,000 rupees (about 700 euros). It’s best to withdraw the money in advance. And yes… I also found it annoying to walk around with a huge bundle of bills like a walking ATM. Unfortunately, there’s no way around it.
To be on the safe side, it’s best to distribute the money a bit, e.g. part deep in the backpack, another on the body, the rest e.g. in a belt bag*. Fortunately, you don’t have to worry about robberies or the like. Nepal is a relatively safe travel destination (see also the notes below).
One more thing: there is a daily limit for withdrawing money from ATMs; I think it was 35,000 rupees. So it’s best to take every opportunity to withdraw money before you go trekking.
Annapurna Circuit: Guided or self-guided?
I did the Annapurna Circuit on my own, without a guide or porter. This is not a problem for hikers with sufficient experience. The trail is well marked, there are plenty of other people on the trail and you are never really far from civilization. However, many people still choose to go with guides and porters. If you have not yet done any longer hiking tours, this may make sense.
Advantages of individual hiking
You can plan your route freely and take breaks and stopovers exactly when you want.
No additional costs for guides.
You get to know people better because you take care of everything yourself and need to communicate.
Advantages of hiking with a guide
Provides security because the guide knows the area, takes care of the accommodation and helps with any problems.
You support the local economy, as many people make a living from tourism.
There are porters with you, so you have to carry less.
Personally, I thought it was great to set out on my own. Especially as a solo hiker, it was the perfect way to get in touch with people. Simply because you have to take care of everything yourself. What I often observed in the guided groups in contrast: relatively little interaction with the locals, since the guide takes care of that.
Tip: If you don’t already have one, you should also think about international health insurance. If you are careful and give yourself enough time, you probably won’t need it. In an emergency, however, a helicopter transport can cost a few thousand euros. You have to decide whether it is worth it or not. Personally, I use the annual insurance from HanseMerkur*, which at 18 euros per year doesn’t cost that much.
Update 2025: No more solo trekking on the Annapurna Circuit?
From April 1, 2023, solo trekking or individual trekking was semi-officially banned in Nepal. This also applies to hikes on the Annapurna Circuit, regardless of whether you are hiking in a group or completely alone. According to the Nepal Tourism Board, an officially licensed guide is required for all tours. The Trekking Permit TIMS, i.e. the permit, will no longer be issued to individual trekkers.
The reason given for the new rule is safety concerns. Every year, foreign trekkers disappear in the mountainous regions of Nepal. As was to be expected, the rule caused a lot of trouble in the international trekking community, and not everyone in Nepal is enthusiastic about it either. The good news is that that individual tours are still possible.
First, here the screenshot of the Nepal Tourism Board’s press release:
Is the new guide requirement really being enforced?
The big question on everyone’s mind right now is whether the new requirement to hire a guide will really be consistently enforced. The good news is that at the moment it doesn’t look that way.
I was in Nepal again from March to May 2024 and spoke to many trekkers in the hostels in Kathmandu. Many told me that they had no problem traveling in the Annapurna region without a guide. Some said that they were asked about a guide by officials in some places. But nothing happened and they were able to continue without a guide.
For months, reports have been piling up on the internet from trekkers who were able to start their trek without a guideand had no problems along the way. Here are a few quotes from the Facebook group Annapurna Circuit Trek:
“I and my friend just finished AC a few days ago. We went solo without a guide, and no problem.”
Groupmember, 26. August 2023
“The law doesn’t exist, it’s created by the trekking companies. I spoke with the official in the tourist centre in Kathmandu and he told me I can go without guide. I’m in Tatopani now and everything went good so far”
Groupmember, 25. August 2023
“No need of guide at all. Tea houses owners complain a lot about the rule as it has impacted them badly; they are very welcoming to solo visitors. I am on the circuit now and the only ones giving me a look are the guides and those who hire them”
Groupmember, 12. Mai 2023
“Me and my gf made it to Manang yesterday without a guide. The police did ask if we had a guide, but just smile and laugh when we say we don’t, so they don’t really care or do anything about it”
Groupmember, 17. April 2023
“We just received our ACAP permit in the Katmandu office and the officer said we don’t need a TIMS permit and can trek without a guide. If we get stopped we have his number to call him.”
Groupmember, 15. April 2023
So the situation now is: Yes, there is this strange, quasi-official rule, but nobody in Nepal follows it. Of course, it’s still a far from ideal situation because, in theory, it could change at any time. But at least for the moment it looks safe – so maybe now is the best time to do the trek.
My tips for playing it safe:
Before the trip, check with the Facebook group mentioned above or one of the other Nepal groups to see what the current situation is.
When you are in Nepal and get relevant information from an official, get the official’s phone number. If you run into trouble at a checkpoint, you’ll have someone to refer to.
Be careful about information from agencies and local guides: The guides have a financial interest in you as a customer and you will almost certainly hear that you need a guide.
TIMS permit no longer required
One important change: As an individual trekker, you no longer need a TIMS permit. In the past, this permit was needed as a general permit to trek in Nepal. In addition, you needed a permit to access the Annapurna Conservation Area (ACAP permit).
Now you only need the ACAP permit. You can still pick it up at the tourist office in Kathmandu and Pokhara (see below). However, this permit is now also checked.
One more request: If you have any experiences and/or up-to-date information, please feel free to write a comment below! I would like to keep the article up to date and there is not much independent information on the web.
Tips for hiring guides and porters
Whether you have to hire a guide or not, it can still make sense to hire a guide. Whether you organize this in advance via the internet or on the ground is up to you. In general, direct contact with the guide is better because the large commercial agiencies charge a high commission. And in the end, these agencies do nothing else than hire people locally.
If you need contacts for guides, ask in the Facebook group mentioned above. There, trekkers regularly share the numbers of recommended guides. You can then simply contact the guide via Whatsapp, which everyone in Nepal has on their cell phone. And even though I have criticized the guides a few times: there are of course really good guides too! A guided tour doesn’t necessarily have to be a bad experience.
Another option if you have a little more time: Just go looking in Kathmandu or Pokhara – there are a million agents there. Just stand on the street in Thamel, look inconspicuously at the air and twiddle your thumbs – after 10 seconds at the latest someone will ask you if you need their help.
Make sure that the guide has an official license and have them show it to you.
Feel free to talk to several providers and also talk to the guide. You will spend several days or weeks with them, so you should get along with them.
If you want to take certain paths or side routes, always check with them beforehand. Many guides will take their customers on the old route on the road out of convenience, even though there are more beautiful side paths.
You can negotiate the costs individually. For a guide, you can expect to pay around 2000-3000 NPR per day, and 1500-2000 NPR for a porter. At the end, tips are added, which is expected.
Guide
A normal guide usually speaks English and is responsible for showing you the way. He knows the area, takes care of accommodation and can explain the local culture, flora and fauna and the special features of the landscape. The guide carries his own backpack, but no luggage from you (except in emergencies, e.g. in the event of an accident).
Porter
Porters are usually local staff who are hired on spot and carry your luggage. They usually don’t speak English very well because the guide is there to communicate with the customer. I have seen quite a few tourists treating their porters as if the colonial era never ended, making them carry 20 to 30 kilograms. Please be considerate and don’t overdo it. It’s a really hard job – 15 kg per porter should be the maximum.
Porter-Guides
Some guides also work as porters. These are usually the younger porters who want to become guides later on and have already worked their way up the hierarchy. They speak good English and also know their way around the area. Porter-guides are a good choice for solo trekkers who don’t want to hire a whole crew but still want someone at their side.
Sirdar
In particularly large groups with several guides, there is often a so-called sirdar, the leader of the guides. He is responsible for organizing the entire crew, is usually the oldest and, thanks to his experience, an authority. I met a group of Sherpas with a sirdar in Braka. However, they usually accompany mountaineers and expeditions rather than “normal” trekkers.
Tip: You can also find guides, porters and porter guides in many places on the Annapurna Circuit. So, in principle, you can hire someone anywhere. The people make a living from tourists and there will always be someone available.
What about the TIMS permit for the Annapurna Circuit?
The mysterious TIMS permit still causes a little confusion because the rules for issuing permits on the Annapurna Circuit have changed since April 1, 2023.
Officially, you need two paid permits, which are available from the tourist office in Kathmandu or Pokhara:
TIMS card: Trekker Information Management System (2,000 NPR)
As an individual traveler without a guide, the TIMS permit is not required.
This is the general permit that allows travelers to hike and trek in Nepal. Since April 2023, the TIMS permit has only been available through an officially licensed trekking agency. It is no longer issued to individual travelers, but it is also not checked at the trek.
ACAP Permit: Access to the Annapurna Conservation Area (3,000 NPR)
The separate permit to enter the Annapurna Conservation Area. The ACAP permit is still issued to individual travelers in Kathmandu and Pokara and checked at the entrance to the Annapurna region and at the checkpoints.
In practice, this means:
If you are doing the trek with an agency and official guide, they will take care of both the TIMS card and the ACAP permit. You just have to pay and don’t have to worry about anything else.
As an individual trekker, you only need to get the ACAP permit from the tourist office. As things stand, the TIMS card is not required and is not checked.
The tourist office in Kathmandu is located about 20-25 minutes’ walk from the Thamel district – you can easily walk there (location on Google Maps). It is open every day from 10:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m., except for Saturday – which is the official day of rest in Nepal, similar to Sunday in Europe.
For the permits you need:
A copy of your passport
Two passport photos
Insurance number for your health insurance
When the TIMS permit was still being issued, the whole process was a bit cumbersome because you had to change counters twice. Since only the ACAP permit is now required, the bureaucracy has become a bit easier. Just follow the “ACAP” sign and ask at the counter. It’s best to come as early as possible to avoid the crowds of other trekkers.
By the way: The insurance number of the health insurance is not checked, so you can basically write in any number and nobody will notice. For your own safety, I would still take out a travel insurance policy* as mentioned above.
Checkpoints on the Annapurna Circuit
The checkpoints are located at various places along the route. Sometimes the officials wave you in, but sometimes I also had to go there myself. The whole procedure seemed rather lax to me, and many of the checkpoints were completely abandoned. Without the ACAP permit, I still wouldn’t go hiking. At some point you will be checked.
Checkpoint in Dharapani.
Visa for Nepal
Speaking of bureaucracy: To enter Nepal, you also need a visa, but you can get it directly at the airport (Visa on Arrival). The costs depend on how long you want to stay in the country:
15 days – 30 USD
30 days – 50 USD
90 days – 125 USD
Immediately after arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu, you will be directed to the appropriate counter by the officials. Payment is made in cash – either in dollars or in Nepalese rupees, so you will need to go to an ATM first. However, there are plenty of ATMs in the arrivals hall.
My tip: To avoid waiting times, you can also apply for the visa online in advance (select: Visa on Arrival). This speeds up the process a bit because you don’t have to fill out the paper forms first. I didn’t know this beforehand and had to wait in line for half an hour.
How difficult is the Annapurna Circuit?
The Annapurna Circuit is a technically easy hike in good conditions. The paths are often wide trails or dirt roads. The terrain is neither particularly exposed nor particularly difficult to walk. Compared to some treks I have done in the Alps, e.g. the Stubaier Höhenweg or in the Triglav National Park, this one is more relaxed. On the Swiss scale, this would correspond to a difficulty level of T2 to a maximum of T3 in a few short places.
However, you shouldn`t play down the Annapurna Round either. The altitude in connection with the thin air saps your strength. From about 3,500 meters you will become very slow and the higher you climb, the more exhausting it will be. I also saw rockfalls and landslides several times. Parts of the paths had simply broken away. So always ask at the lodges whether a particular section is safe to walk on.
Do I need to train for the Annapurna Circuit?
This is a question that quite a few people have already asked me: Do you need any special “preparation” for the Circuit? So here is my personal assessment again:
If you are already active and go hiking regularly, no preparation or special training is necessary for the Annapurna Circuit. It is important that you have a sufficient basic level of fitness to walk for 5-8 hours a day for long periods at a time.
If you tend to go hiking irregularly, sit a lot at work and don’t move around much, it makes sense to start targeted fitness training about 3 months before the trip.
A simple and free method to build up endurance is jogging (I personally do that as well because I also sit a lot at work): about 3 times a week for 30-60 minutes, if in doubt, do less and slowly increase. If you do this regularly for 3 months, you won’t have any problems.
If jogging is out of the question, you can also go cycling or take longer walks/hikes instead. It is important that you get your body used to covering longer distances in one go.
There is no need for special “altitude training”. Your body will automatically adjust to the altitude. It makes no difference whether you are particularly fit or not. See also the comments below on acclimatization.
Approaching Thorong La Pass on easy trails. The real challenge is the altitude and the thin air.
Important: Don’t underestimate the high mountains
One more thing that needs to be said: Of course you should approach the Himalayas with a little respect. Before the trip, I read some tips on the internet along the lines of “It’s all easy, you can just go and walk over the Thorong-La in a T-shirt with sneakers”. I think that’s a bit careless.
It is still the highest mountain range on earth and as always in the mountains, the weather can change very quickly – usually not for the better. The route to the Thorong-La Pass is completely exposed to the elements. In 2014, there was a disaster here when over 40 people froze to death in a snowstorm. A sudden change in the weather at such altitudes is no fun, even on this easy pass.
Without overdramatizing – just follow the usual rules of conduct in the mountains:
Check the weather report in the morning and take a day off if the forecast is bad.
Find out about the condition of the trails on site and adjust the route if necessary.
Take warm, windproof and waterproof clothing for possible sudden changes in the weather.
Start early to have a time buffer in case of unforeseen problems.
Assess beforehand whether you are fit enough for the planned route and the altitude to be covered.
Eat and drink enough and take enough water with you.
Do not go alone if you have no experience in the mountains.
When in doubt, always return to the last safe position.
The route is not particularly difficult in “good conditions”. In bad conditions, such as snow, freezing rain or strong winds, it can be quite different, for example if the trail to the pass or the pass itself is covered with snow. In this case, it is safer to rest a day. And then, of course, we have the issue of altitude sickness / acclimatization. A few words about this in the next paragraph.
Acclimatization and altitude sickness when hiking in the Himalayas
Disclaimer: I am not a doctor. So I can only talk about my own experiences and what I heard from the experts at the altitude clinic in Manang. But that’s enough to start with. And in the end, altitude sickness is very easy to avoid and nothing to be afraid of.
What is altitude sickness?
Just a brief general explanation: altitude sickness is a functional disorder of the body caused by poor adaptation to high altitudes (from about 2,500 – 3,000 meters). The typical symptoms are:
headaches
dizziness
fatigue
loss of appetite
sleep disorders
In severe cases: shortness of breath, confusion, and even coma
The cause of these symptoms is the lower air pressure, which continues to drop with increasing altitude. This also lowers the oxygen pressure in the air, with the result that less oxygen enters the blood with each breath. You notice this, for example, in that you become short of breath and your heart beats faster.
I don’t want to go into too much detail here. You can find a very nice article on the subject on my colleagues’ Dusty Boots Blog. Just this: it’s relatively normal to feel a bit strange at a certain altitude. The exact altitude varies from person to person; for me, it starts at 3,200 meters. Other people notice it earlier or later.
How do you feel the altitude?
In addition to shortness of breath and faster heartbeat, I noticed the high altitudes in the Himalayas by one thing that sounds pretty stupid: I had to pee constantly. If I had a drink, it went straight through. I don’t know why that is. But I had also talked to other people and it was the same for them.
Another thing that happened to me: I couldn’t sleep well at the beginning and woke up every now and then during the night. It went on like that for about a week, after which it got better. I only had a headache one evening, and it was gone the next morning. But I was short of breath for a very long time, every little hill was exhausting.
Why altitude sickness is relatively common on the Annapurna Circuit
One thing I noticed right away: altitude problems are not the exception on the Annapurna Circuit, but rather the rule. This is because many people ascend way too quickly. Actually, it is well known that you should not do that. The problem here is often time pressure. Often, people have only a few days available for the tour. So too much distance is covered per day or certain sections are skipped by car.
Some people also just keep walking, whether they are feeling well or not, because they have to be back in town by a certain date. This is especially an issue in guided groups, often with a very tight time frame. Then there is also the group dynamic. You don’t want to hold up the whole group or split up. So you’d rather keep quiet about not feeling well and go along with the group.
I experienced such cases myself. The toughest at over 4,500 meters and that could have ended quite badly for me without a spontaneous rescue operation. And no… not an exaggeration (more on this below). Since I had already experienced the symptoms of altitude sickness a few years ago on the highest mountain in Armenia, I at least knew roughly what to expect and was a bit more careful.
Official times and altitudes for the most important places on the Annapurna Circuit.
How to avoid altitude sickness on the Annapurna Circuit
The good news in all of this is: It’s very easy to avoid serious symptoms of altitude sickness. You just have to follow a simple rule: gain altitude slowly and give your body enough time to get used to the unusually thin air.
Let’s take a look at what the experts have to say on the subject:
Gradual ascent: From an altitude of 3,000 meters onwards only ascend 300–500 meters per day.
Acclimatization: As soon as you reach an altitude of 3,500 meters take at least one additional rest day for acclimatization – preferably 2-3 days.
Hydration: You should drink enough – at least 3 liters per day, and 4-5 liters if you are exercising.
Rest day: Take another rest day at about 4,500 meters.
Mindfulness: Listen to your own body. A slight headache and nausea are no cause for concern. But if it gets worse, it is better to descend to a lower altitude.
Group dynamics: If you are in a group, let your friends know in good time if you feel unwell and don’t let yourself be talked into continuing. If in doubt, it’s better to turn back.
In an emergency: If you have serious problems, descend as quickly as possible.
The generally accepted advice is to stay in Manang for about 2-3 days and to make day trips for acclimatization, e.g. to Ice Lake. The motto is: “Walk high, sleep low”. During the day you ascend a few hundred meters, in the evening you return to a lower position to sleep.
Another recommendation was: avoid alcohol and don’t smoke cigarettes. The beer is relatively expensive anyway but I will admit: I had a smoke with the Sherpas on Thorong-La to celebrate the day and survived 🙂 On the other hand, I was sufficiently well acclimatized at the time.
Incidentally, personal fitnessplays no role in acclimatization. On the contrary, particularly fit people more often have problems with altitude sickness.
Diamox for better acclimatization
Many people take Diamox for better acclimatization or to alleviate symptoms. You can get it in Kathmandu and also in Manang. For prevention, half a tablet in the morning and evening is recommended. For acute cases, take one tablet or more as needed. I did not take Diamox and got by just fine without it. Except for a slight headache in Brakha one evening, I had no problems at all.
At Thorong High Camp at 4,925 meters.
This is how I acclimatized
I followed the rules listed above pretty closely. In fact, I was actually a bit slower than recommended in the end. My acclimatization plan was as follows:
From Upper Pisang (3,300 m), a maximum of 500 meters of altitude per day
Exception: the way to Thorong High Camp at 4,925 m, about 700 meters per day
Before Manang (3,540 m) two nights at 3,670 m (Ngawal) and 3,439 m (Bhraka)
On my aborted trip to Tilicho Lake three more nights at over 4,000 meters
Until the day of the pass crossing, I had been on the road for 14 days
Here’s the interesting thing: I was still not 100% perfectly acclimatized. I didn’t have any symptoms or anything like that, but I was definitely not as fit as usual at over 4,000 meters. From 4,500 meters up, I was feeling like an old man and had to consciously concentrate on breathing.
High altitude is difficult to describe. It’s not that you can’t get any air. Rather, it feels like you’re permanently exhausted, as if you’ve just run a marathon. Most of the time it was like this: step, take a deep breath, next step, keep going. And hope that the drudgery will eventually be over.
I only really felt well acclimatized after I had crossed the pass. On the way to Annapurna Base Camp and Mardi Himal two weeks later, walking above 4,000 meters was no longer a problem and felt completely normal. The lesson for me: acclimatization takes pretty long – weeks and not days. So my tip would be: don’t necessarily expect to feel in top form if you take a day or two off. This only prevents the dangerous symptoms.
What I have observed in other people who have ascended too quickly
As mentioned above, I witnessed quite a few cases of altitude sickness. In Manang, for example, a German couple who had walked up from the valley in four days and had such severe double vision that they had to turn back. Trip over… On the Thorong La, an elderly lady who simply collapsed in the thin air and passed out. In addition, many people who had driven too fast to Manang by jeep and had to take a forced break because they felt lousy.
Altitude sick at over 4,500 meters
On the way from Manang to Ice Lake (4,600 m) I met a Spanish girl in very serious condition. I was actually afraid that she might pass out and die. The girl was a picture of misery. Shivering, crying, huddled in the freezing wind at over 4,500 meters in the cold. No longer able to walk alone or even speak a clear word. And to make matters worse: the rest of her friends had simply walked on and left her alone.
In that moment I really doubted humanity. Can you really be that stupid? Or that inconsiderate? And I honestly think this could have ended badly. After I accompanied the girl down a few hundred meters with a lot of coaxing, things became better, though. For me it was a bit stupid, because I had to hike up to Ice Lake twice, but oh well… that day I could feel like the savior in need. In any case, I met her again in Manang two days later. Fortunately, everything turned out well.
Conclusion: altitude sickness is no joke and can happen to anyone if you’re not careful. So it’s better to take it slowly and take a rest day if you’re not feeling so well. And above all, don’t let yourself be talked into continuing or going on a day trip if you don’t feel like it.
Best time to travel around Annapurna
Back to the more pleasant things in life: the best time for the big trip. That’s relatively simple, the travel times are clearly defined in Nepal. There are two main trekking seasons in the Himalayas, determined by the annual monsoon rains (June – September):
Before the monsoon: spring (mid-March to late May)
After the monsoon: fall (mid-September to late November)
In spring, you can expect the Annapurna Circuit to have slightly warmer temperatures and blooming rhododendron trees and other plants. On the other hand, it can get hazy quite quickly after late morning, which impacts visibility. Also rain showers are more frequent, especially as the monsoon approaches.
Autumn is peak season and promises bright blue skies with almost limitless visibility. But it’s also a lot busier then and it can get crowded on the trails and at the lodges. At higher altitudes, it is also quite a bit colder than in spring.
I was in Nepal from the end of March until the third week of May and loved it. There was only haze in the air in the south of the Annapurna massif. From Pisang to Tatopani, I had clear blue skies and incredible views of the mountains almost every day. I also had a fairly warm spring – even in the Thorong High Camp, the temperature in the huts only dropped to about 0° Celsius at night.
In spring, the rhododendrons are in full bloom – very beautiful for hiking, especially at lower altitudes.
Getting to the Annapurna Circuit
To get from Kathmandu to Besisahar, where the Annapurna Circuit starts, you have two options: the local buses depart from the Gongabu New Bus Station north of Thamel (Google Maps). There is also the Sorhakhutte Bus Stop for tourist buses right next to Thamel (Google Maps). To be on the safe side, get the tickets the day before.
The trip costs about 500 NPR and takes quite a long time. Expect about 8 hours to Besisahar. There are local buses and tourist buses, and the Nepalese said the local bus would be faster. I honestly doubt that, since in the end everyone has to take the same road and the roads are a) bad and b) overcrowded. It took me about 7.5 hours by local bus.
The first buses start around 6:00 am. I would also recommend this bus if you want to walk a bit on the same day. This will get you to Besisahar around 2:00 p.m. From here, you can also organize jeeps to take you further into the mountains if needed. The cost depends on how far you go, but it starts at around 1,000 NPR.
Packing list for the Annapurna Circuit
Many people on the Annapurna Circuit carry a backpack that is significantly too heavy because they are carrying too much clothing with them. This is not necessary because you can wash your clothes along the way. Many of the lodges offer a laundry service, and in the larger towns like Manang, my laundry was ready within half a day. You can also have this done overnight.
In general, I would recommend taking the following clothing:
1 set of clothes for during the day (T-shirt, trousers, fleece pullover or down jacket if necessary, sun protection)
1 set of clothes for after the hike at the lodge (long-sleeved shirt, long underwear, comfortable shoes, an extra sweater if necessary, a scarf and hat if it gets cold in the evening.
The number of casual clothes you take with you is up to you, of course. But more than 2 T-shirts are not really necessary, since you only ever wear one and can wash the other one during that time. The same applies to underwear. And you don’t have to wash the sweater and the larger items every day anyway, especially since you don’t usually move around much in casual clothes.
I had the following with me:
Clothing
1 merino shirt for hiking during the day
1 long merino shirt for changing in the evening + for sleeping
Light fleece pullover for during the day in cooler temperatures
Down jacket for breaks during the day/in the evening in the
Recommendation for fleece jacket: Patagonia R1 Air Hoody
I combined the clothes in multiple layers, depending on how warm or cold it was. And that worked great. During the day, the sun was usually shining, so I was often able to walk around in a T-shirt or shirt. In the evenings at the lodge, I sometimes took the down jacket. For the pass, I put on a hat, fleece pullover, gloves and the Goretex jacket, and that was enough. One thing: I was traveling in the spring. In the fall, it may be cooler, especially above 3,500 meters.
Tip: A small and very light daypack that is well suited for such trekking tours is the Osprey Ultra Stuffpack*. When trekking from lodge to lodge, you can simply roll it up, and it weighs just under 100 grams.
First-aid kit (if necessary medication for altitude sickness such as Diamox)
Plasters/blister plasters
Sunblock (SPF 50+) & lip protection
Disinfectant for hands
Toilet paper & zip-lock bags (for garbage)
Toothbrush/toothpaste
Hand towel (microfiber, quick-drying)
There is no toilet paper in the toilets in the lodges, but you can buy it everywhere. You can get medication safely in Manang – there is a small clinic there between the museum and Hotel Himalaya Sing (Google Maps). You can get the usual medication for colds etc. there, as well as Diamox for symptoms of altitude sickness.
Equipment
Trekking poles
Polarized sunglasses (UV protection factor 3 or higher)
filter and tablets for water purification
Physical map of the region
GPS device
Power bank
If you are navigating with a smartphone, you should make sure that you have enough power. A power bank is therefore essential. Since you can charge it at the lodges, the power bank does not have to be overly large. I like to use the light and compact Anker Powercore here.
Tip: Take a look at my tried and tested packing list for multi-day hikes. You can find the exact weight and more tips there. I used this list almost 1:1 for the Annapurna Circuit. You can also find my monthly updated list of the best current outdoor deals and bargains here.
Which hiking boots do you need?
As always, opinions differ on the subject of hiking boots. Many people I met were wearing heavy mountain boots. In my opinion, this is excessive, since you mostly walk on fairly easy trails. I had my Garmont Dragontail* approach shoes with me, and that was perfectly adequate.
Just a brief explanation: approach shoes are a cross between hiking boots and climbing shoes and, above all, are very comfortable. At the same time, the shoes are also very robust and equipped with a scree protection band and a well-balanced profile. This means that you are also safe on the somewhat more demanding mountain trails with scree. And you can also walk around in the city comfortably. That’s a huge advantage. I can really only recommend this type of shoe as an all-round hiking shoe – not only on the Annapurna circuit.
Crossing the high altitude desert of Mustang.
Do you need a sleeping bag for the Annapurna Circuit?
This is a question that bothered me for a long time. Some blog posts recommend that you take a sleeping bag with a comfort range of down to -10° Celsius. Therefore, I was about the fence to rent a thick winter sleeping bag in Kathmandu. In the end, I simply used my lighter down quilt* (comfort range: -1° Celsius) and it was no problem.
It was cold in the huts at night above 3,500 meters, but they have thick fleece blankets for guests. The quilt and blanket combo kept me cozy and warm. I probably could have made it without the quilt, but I was glad to have the extra layer of down. Also, I was traveling in early April. It will probably be a bit colder in the fall. A thicker sleeping bag is definitely not a bad idea then.
Safety and cultural aspects
Nepal is a safe country to travel in, even for solo travelers without a guide. The Nepalese are friendly and relaxed, the hassle-factor is low. Actually, my meetings with the local population were one of the highlights of this trip. So don’t worry too much about crime etc. I think it`s extremely unlikely that something happens to you.
I read beforehand that begging is a big problem. I didn’t think it was that bad. Sometimes a few children asked for chocolate and sweets. But if I shook my head, I was left alone relatively quickly. I was asked for money maybe two or three times. Of course you shouldn’t give anything. That may sound cruel. But if you give to one, the next moment the whole crowd will come. And you can’t help the whole world, as much as you would like to.
In Thamel, the tourist district of Kathmandu, of course various vendors will approach you quite often. But I didn’t find it too bad. If you tell people in a friendly but firm manner that you really don’t want this great, super-cheap, super-nice bracelet, it’s fine.
What also surprised me: the level of English is surprisingly good. In the lodges, of course, but also on the way, I kept meeting locals with whom I could talk. Some of them even knew a few words of German. Compared to my trips to Thailand, for example, where almost no locals outside the hotels knew English, it was much less complicated here. But it’s probably also because the Annapurna region in particular is quite touristy.
Here are a few final tips and information that might help you:
Currency: Nepalese Rupee (NPR). For 1 Euro you get about 140 NPR.
Time difference to Germany: + 03:45 hours/+ 04:45 hours (depending on summer or winter time)
Water: Do not drink tap water unless you have filtered it or treated it in some other way.
Hygiene: Use hand sanitizer regularly, especially before eating.
Toilet paper: This is not usually available in the lodges. However, you can buy it in every village along the way.
Provisions: You don’t need to carry huge amounts of water and food, as you will come across villages with lodges and restaurants every 2-3 hours at the latest.
Planning: Allow yourself enough time for the trek and plan at least 1-2 buffer days for bad weather, discomfort, etc.
After the trek: Consider adding a few days in Kathmandu. There is an incredible amount to see there and the city is much better than its bad reputation.
Pokhara: This is a popular place with backpackers and is very well suited for relaxing and smoking weed. Culturally I found it rather uninteresting. But from here you can easily get to Chitwan National Park.
My verdict on the Annapurna Circuit
Is the Annapurna Circuit really the best trekking tour in the world, as they claim so often? Good question… Probably not. The world is bigger than we think and there are plenty of exciting routes that no one has ever heard of. With the Annapurna Circuit, it’s mainly the big name combined with the mystique of the 8,000-meter peaks in the Himalayas that attracts people.
The more important question is whether the Annapurna Circuit is still worthwhile today. And here I would answer: definitely! Scenically, the trail offers an almost perfect dramatic arc: a gentle start in the lowlands, the slow gathering of impressions which lead to the alpine climax in the High Himalayas. Then slowly back to civilization and the grand finale in the blooming rhododendron forests of Poon Hill. This is a real cinematic experience and hard to beat!
Many people who did the Annapurna Circuit 20 years ago say that it is no longer worthwhile today. Of course, I don’t know what it was like in the past. And I don’t know what changes the next few years will bring either. But if you fancy this trail, I wouldn’t let anyone talk you out of it. Chances are you’ll go home with a bunch of unforgettable memories!
I can’t get out of bed in the morning without coffee and can’t experience new adventures 🙂
Disclaimer: This article contains affiliate links marked with an asterisk * that lead to online retailers such as Amazon. If you click on such a link and buy something, I will receive a small share that helps finance this blog. This is the best way for you to say thank you if you liked the post. Of course, there are no additional costs for you.
Do you have any questions or comments about the Annapurna Circuit? Do you know of any other exciting treks in Nepal? Or have you ever done the circuit before the road was built? Let me know in the comments – I look forward to hearing from you!
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